Brakes for 2009 chevy silverado

Brakes for 2009 chevy silverado DEFAULT

Chevrolet Silverado Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the front brake pads on a second generation to GM Chevy Silverado truck with pictures.

Silverado Front Wheel
7/8" Lug Nut Caps
Loosen Lug Nut Caps
This automotive "how-to" guide was specifically written to assist owners of the 2nd generation (, , , , , & ) Chevrolet Silverado in replacing the front brake pads.

Owners of other General Motors vehicles such as the GMC Sierra, Terrain, Acadia, Yukon, Savana, Chevy Colorado, Avalanche, Express, Equinox, Traverse, Tahoe, Suburban, Spark, Sonic, Cruze, Volt, Malibu, Impala, SS, Camaro, Corvette, Verano, Regal, LaCrosse, Encore, and Enclave may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The tools needed to complete this front brake job include a 7/8" socket, a 19mm socket, a ratcheting wrench, a floor jack with two jack stands, a lug nut wrench, a "C" or "F" clamp, a tube of brake parts lubricant grease, and a new set of brake pads.

A few compatible aftermarket brake pads with their part numbers include the following: ACDelco 17DCH, Raybestos ATDC, Wagner QC, Bendix D, Axxis X, Dura International BP C & Centric

Please verify the correct replacement part numbers for your Silverado by using the Amazon Part Finder website. The correct parts may vary depending on the model year, trim level, and whether it has the RWD (rear wheel drive) or 4WD (four wheel drive) transmission.Chevrolet-Silverado-Front-Brake-Pads-Replacement-Guide
Remove Lug Nut Cover
Slightly Loosen Lug Nuts
Raise Front of Truck
The first few steps are to park the truck on a level surface, engage the emergency parking brake and chock the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from moving.

Then slightly loosen the 6 lug nuts on the front wheel by turning them counter clockwise with the tire iron. (The tire iron is located under the rear passenger seat behind the driver's seat.)

Raise the front of the vehicle with the floor jack and securely support it with the two jack stands.

(I prefer to work on one side of the vehicle at a time for extra safety.)

Spin Off 6 Lug Nuts
Front Brake Bracket, Rotor
Front Brake Caliper
Spin off the 6 lug nuts and set them aside in a safe place.

Pull off the front wheel to reveal the front brake caliper, rotor, bracket and suspension.

The two caliper bolts are located on the back side of the front brake caliper at the top and bottom.

Loosen Upper Caliper Bolt
Loosen Lower 19mm Bolt
Remove Lower Bolt
Loosen the two caliper bolts with the 19mm socket and ratcheting wrench by turning them clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle).Chevrolet-Silverado-Front-Brake-Pads-Replacement-Guide
Spin Out Upper Caliper Bolt
Two 19mm Caliper Bolts
Pull Off Front Brake Caliper
Remove the two caliper bolts and set them aside with the lug nuts.

Carefully pull the caliper off the old brake pads and out of the bracket. Try to avoid stressing the rubber brake fluid line.

Rest Caliper On Suspension
Pull Out Old Outer Pad
Remove Inner Brake Pad
Rest the caliper on the suspension or suspend it from the spring with a bungee cord.

Pull the old outer and inner brake pads out of the bracket.

Make a mental note of how the wear or "squeal" bar is situated on the OEM brake pads.

On this Silverado , the wear bar was located at the bottom of the inner brake pad.

I recommend buying the OEM GM ACDelco 17DCHfront brake pads since they have excellent reviews on Amazon.


Wear Bar - Bottom Inner Pad
Replace Pad Abutment Clips
Remove Upper Caliper Pin
If your new set of front brake pads came with new pad abutment or "anti-rattle" clips, pull the old ones out of the top and bottom of the bracket before installing the new ones.

In order for the brake caliper to operate smoothly, the two caliper slider pins need to be well lubricated.

Carefully remove the upper and lower caliper pins out of their rubber dust boots and apply a layer of brake caliper grease to each before pushing them back in.

Lower Caliper Slider Pin
Attach "F" Clamp To Pistons
Twist Off Brake Fluid Cap
In order for the caliper to fit over the thicker new brake pads, the two caliper pistons need to be compressed backwards.

Attach the "C" or "F" clamp to the caliper using the back of an old brake pad to evenly distribute the pressure.

Move to the engine bay and twist off the brake fluid reservoir cap in the counter clockwise direction. Removing the brake fluid reservoir cap will allow the fluid to more easily travel back through the lines when you compress the caliper pistons.

Compress Caliper Pistons
Replace Brake Fluid Cap
Install New Outer Pad

Slowly tighten the "C" or "F" clamp to compress the pistons while repeatedly checking the level in the brake fluid reservoir to make sure it doesn't over flow. Clean up any spilled brake fluid immediately since it can easily damage painted surfaces. You may need to reposition the "C" or "F" clamp to fully compress both pistons until they are flush with their rubber dust boots.

Replace the brake fluid reservoir cap as soon as possible since brake fluid is hygroscopic (readily absorbs moisture).

Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, brake caliper assembly and the lug nut studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not use compressed air or blow with your mouth to clean off the brake parts since breathing in brake dust can be harmful to your health. Brake dust can be carcinogenic (causes cancer) if inhaled.

If your vehicle previously exhibited shuddering, pulsating, or vibrations during braking, you may need to have your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or just replace them with brand new rotors. If this is the truck's first front brake job and the rotors appear to be in excellent condition, you should be able to just replace the pads with great results.

To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, just remove the two bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a rubber mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place.

Wear Bar - Bottom Inner Pad
Push Pads Against Rotor
Lower Caliper Over Pads
Install the new outer and inner brake pads with the wear bar situated at the bottom of the inner pad.

Push the two new brake pads flush against the rotor.

Carefully lower the caliper over the new brake pads and in to the bracket. If the caliper won't fit over the new pads, you may need to compress the pistons back a bit further.

Insert Upper Caliper Bolt
Insert Lower 19mm Bolt
Tighten Upper Caliper Bolt
Line up the bolt holes in the caliper with the corresponding holes in the caliper slider pins without the bracket.

Insert the two caliper bolts and tighten them a few turns by hand to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Tighten Lower 19mm Bolt
Rubber Valve Cap
Brake Fluid Valve Cap
Tighten the upper and lower caliper bolts by turning them counter clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle) with the 19mm socket and ratcheting wrench to just past hand tight or about 74 to 80 ft lbs of torque.

Double check that the two caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps.

If your brake pedal previously felt soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain some air bubbles.

It would be best to bleed the brake lines at this time in order to flush out the old fluid and replace it with fresh DOT3 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Power Bleeder Guide.

The brake fluid bleeder valve is located underneath a rubber cap on the back side of the caliper just below the upper caliper bolt.

Replace Front Wheel
Spin On 6 Lug Nuts
Slightly Tighten Lug Nuts
Replace the front wheel and spin on the 6 lug nuts by hand to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Slightly tighten the 6 lug nuts in a criss cross or star pattern with the tire iron.

Lower Truck From Jack
Torque Lug Nuts
Replace Lug Nut Cover
Lower the front of the truck from the jack stands using the floor jack.

Continue tightening the lug nuts in a criss cross or star pattern to about 1/4 to 1/3 turn past hand tight or about ft lbs of torque. It would be best to use a torque wrench or an impact wrench with a torque stick to properly tighten the lug nuts.

Line up the lug nut cover and spin on the lug nut caps by hand to prevent them from becoming cross threaded.

Spin On Lug Nut Caps
Tighten 7/8" Lug Nut Caps
Front Brake Pads Replaced
Tighten the lug nuts caps with a 7/8" socket and ratcheting wrench to just past hand tight. Do not over tighten the lug nut caps.

Sit in the driver's seat of the vehicle and pump the brake pedal a few times to restore the brake line pressure. Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If it is low, add some DOT 3 fluid.

To break in your new front brake pads, just drive normally for the first few hundred miles while trying to avoid any hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy and/or not perform as well.

It's also a good idea to regularly check your driveway for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and also verify that the lug nuts are still tight.

For more, check out my other Chevy Silverado Repair & Maintenance Guides.


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Driving for performance or just driving is a continuous wearing process on all parts of the vehicle. One of the hardest-hit parts is brake pads. These little components that sit on the wheels brake disc are made of various materials that assure a safe, smooth, and sometimes abrupt stop.

List of Top-Rated Brake Pads for Chevy Silverado Comparison Table:

Brake pads need to be replaced frequently and depending on how much braking power you use when driving (some use brakes rather than downshifting), you might need to replace your brake more often to assure safety compliance.

Now let&#;s take a look at the brake pads for Chevy Silverado applications.

The Brake Pads for Chevy Silverado Reviews & Buyer&#;s Guide:

1. Power Stop Z Front Z36 Truck and Tow Brake Pads

These are ceramic brake pads, so you get the best stopping performance as well as a low dust rating from a powerful pad for most applications, including hauling, towing, and long-distance driving.

These pads are made from a Carbon-Fiber Ceramic that produces a medium dust level and comes with all the hardware for a fast install. They do not come with sensors.


  • Carbon Fiber infused ceramic formula
  • Thermally scorched pad surfaces
  • Chamfered and slotted like an OE pad
  • Powder-coated backing plate
  • Stainless steel hardware kit for easy installation
  • Stainless steel shims for a virtually noise-free braking
  • Thermally stable compound


This is an exceptional ceramic front brake set. These will give you extra performance on steep angle climb and descent. Well worth the investment.


2. EBC Brakes DP Series Greenstuff Truck and SUV Brake Pad

The series is a special series designed for rough road and off-road use with a 4WD vehicle. They are made from tough organic Kevlar and are fully shimmed edge chamfered and slotted construction. These are a silent full stopping brake solution that will sit perfectly on any truck, SUV or 4X4 vehicle. The Kevlar protects your rotor and comes with GG-rated friction.


  • Organic Kevlar Greenstuff brand
  • Integrally molded with shims
  • Sports replacement pad for Truck and SUV
  • Improves stopping power
  • Lower Dust


If you prefer an inexpensive but exceptional OEM style brake with added stopping control, then this is the one you want on your vehicle. While it is used by 4WD and larger vehicles, it is a perfect solution for every Silverado model and makes on the market.


3. Power Stop Z Front Z36 Truck and Tow Brake Pads

This is another exceptional Power Stop brake pad; it is their Carbon-fiber Ceramic model designed for heavy-duty loads for trucks that haul and tow and require exceptional stop control and power.

The Z36 Extreme Truck and Tow ceramic brake pads produce medium level dust and are bespoke for hauling and towing applications. They do not come with a wear sensor.


  • Carbon Fiber infused Evolution ceramic formula
  • Thermal scorched pad surfaces for fast break-in
  • Chamfered and slotted like the OE pad
  • Powder-coated backing plate
  • Stainless steel hardware kit included
  • Stainless steel shims for a virtually noise-free braking
  • Designed for more brake torque on trucks and SUV&#;s
  • Long pad life for severe duty and commercial applications


If you have a heavy-duty truck, and do a lot of heavy hauling or towing, this is the brake pad of choice. It works, it&#;s proven, and it will deliver long life stopping power at a very reasonable price.


4. SCITOO Ceramic Brake Pads Kits

4. SCITOO Ceramic Brake Pads Kits

View on Amazon

If you in search of quality ceramic brake pads for your Chevy Silverado SCITOO Ceramic Brake Pads Kits is the product for you. Featuring thermos bottle scorched treatment and positive molding method of the brake pad, you are assured of instant braking and long-lasting service. The brake pads are extra quiet, thanks to the gasket that serves as a buffer between the caliper piston and the brake pad backplate. They also absorb vibrations thus ensuring a comfortable breaking experience. What’s more, you do not need to modify these brakes since they are a direct replacement.


  • Carbon-Fiber reinforced ceramic formula for superior fade-free braking power
  • Chamfer design to reduce wear and scratches
  • Direct installation Offer long-lasting service
  • Thermos scorched treatment for low break-in time
  • Package contains 8pcs
  • Quiet brake pads


The SCITOO Ceramic Brake Pads offer more stopping power, are quieter, and do not fade easily. They are compatible with many vehicle models such as Cadillac Escalade Chevy Silverado, GMC Siera, and others.


5. Hawk Performance HBP SuperDuty Brake Pad

The Hawk Performance SuperDuty brake pad is a classic design using Integrally molded without shims construct with steel (Ferro-Carbon sounds better doesn’t it!) mixed in with organic NAO to produce a low-metallic organic compound.

This is a great pad for towing and hauling; the additional steel compound provides excellent heat transfer as well as added strength for stopping power. The steel used in this model is a softer alloy than the one used in most rotors, so you won&#;t get rotor scorching over time.


  • Stable friction output
  • Extremely fade-resistant
  • Extended pad life
  • Increased rotor life
  • Greatly improved braking over OE


This is a classic metallic-organic brake pad that gives you the price of an organic pad with the added stopping power of a metallic pad.


How to change your brake pads

A worn brake pad is easy to notice; it either makes a screeching sound, vibrates, or just doesn’t work. The audible screech is an inbuilt part of the pad and is put there to alert the driver that it&#;s time to replace the pad. Modern pads come with small electronic sensors that deliver a warning signal to the dashboard.

Take heed that if you ignore all the warning signs and let the brake pad wear away completely, you will allow the brake pad body made of steel to make contact with the rotor surface, also steel, which will create grooves in the rotor and demand a rotor replacement too.

There are four types of brake pad material to choose from, let’s look at them.

Semi-Metallic Brake Pads

These pads are made from steel wool, wire, copper, or other metallic compounds and contain anywhere between 30% to 65% metal to the resin. These are not efficient in cold weather although very durable, do wear out the brake rotor due to the levels of harder than steel metals in the mix.

Organic Non-Asbestos (NAO)

These pads are made from organic substances, including fiber, glass, rubber, and Kevlar. The material is softer than other types, quieter in performance but creates a lot of dust. These are also the least expensive and are usually stock (OEM) items.

Low-Metallic NAO

These are Organic with additional metal content; they usually contain small amounts of copper or steel that aids in thermal transfer. They are better than Organic NAO, but they produce the most dust and noise of the pad types.

Ceramic Brake Pads

These pads are made from ceramic fibers with other filler materials. These are the most expensive of the lot, they are cleaner and quiet, and perform the best with the least wear to the rotor.

Replacing brake pads requires the right set of tools, a patient mindset, and a clean working area. So, before you run off to your local mechanic, if you are a car enthusiast with a small tool shop and garage, changing brake pads is an additional and easy to do maintenance job for your truck.
Prepare the following tools, which you most probably have in any event, and if not, buy them. Owning your tools is always great for DIY enthusiasts.
You will need:

Owner’s manual

This is key to success since the owner’s manual will give you all the specifications required for the parts to be replaced. If you don’t have the original owner’s manual, you will easily find it online.

Floor Jack

Big must, and perhaps the number one must in any vehicle shop. Now I am not talking about your small car jack for changing tires; I am talking about a solid-state, heavy-duty three times the weight of the truck jack.

Jack stands

After you jack your car up, you will want a pair of jack stands, again buy a pair that supports double the necessary weight.

Brake tool

This is used to adjust your brake caliper piston. You cannot adjust your caliper piston without this tool, so it’s a mandatory part of the brake pad replacement tool kit.

Replacement brake pads

This is the other must-have after all you are replacing the old ones with new ones.

Replacement rotors

You might not need them, but a spare quad of rotors in the garage is always handy since you never know how your rotors will look like when coming to replace the pads. It&#;s better safe than sorry.

Brake grease

A must-have for applying the grease to the brake pad surface between the pads and the calipers.

Tire iron

So, that’s the toolset done, if you have all of these you can go ahead and change the pads.

Step 1: Raise the Truck

Start by performing a standard tire change by removing the wheels and raising the truck to work height. You do this by first untightening the lugs on the wheels when the truck is on the ground, then you raise the truck using the floor jack, and once at comfortable working height, insert the jack stands. Now you can remove the wheels one at a time safely and easily.

Step 2: Remove the Caliper Assembly and pads

The wheels are off, and not you take off the caliper assembly. You do this by using the socket wrench to loosen the bolts in the back of the caliper. Once loosened you slide the assembly off the rotor. The caliper is connected to the brake line, this can snap, which is expensive to replace, so don’t let the assembly hang from the vehicle. Place the assembly on the top of the rotor or secure it with a piece of wire to the wheel well.

Now remove the brake pads from the rotor. When doing this do not damage the pad clips, you will need them for the new pads, and make sure you don’t score or gouge the rotor. When removing the old pads, look at their placement, that is how you want to place the new ones.

Step 3: Replace the Brake Pads

Now it&#;s time to take the new pads and assemble them onto the rotor. You start by applying the brake grease to the back of the new brake pads; this grease helps reduce the sound caused by the friction of the caliper against the pad. Do not apply the grease on the front of the pads or the rotor.
Golden Rule: On installation, the brake pad and the rotor surface must be % dry and clear of all particulates, grease, and water.
Now place the new pads exactly where you took off the old ones, remember the original position.

Step 4: Replace the Caliper Assembly

Reinstall the caliper assembly; you will need to compress the piston to enlarge the caliper gap since it is now too slim to fit over the new wider pads. Use your brake tool to do this. Start by placing one brake pad inside the caliper, use the wide plastic piece of the brake tool to press against the opposite side of the caliper. Rotate the handle on the brake tool and compress the piston back into the caliper assembly. Now you can fully attach the calipers to the brake pad, and set it in place with the piston.

Step 5: Return Your Wheels

Once you have checked that all the pads and calipers are in place and tight, it’s time to return the wheels to their place, tighten the lugs slightly. Remove the jack supports and lower the vehicle to the ground.

Tighten the wheel lugs and check your braking performance.

(How to) install Chevy Silverado front brake pads

Chevrolet Silverado - Brake Pads

Brake pads feature a metal backing plate with friction material on its face that presses against the brake rotor surface to stop your vehicle. They are compressed by the brake caliper when it receives hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder. Brake pads naturally wear down over time, but it's important to pay attention to their wear patterns. If the brake pads are squealing or grinding, they may have worn down to the backing plate, which can cause damage to the rotor. Brake pads that wear unevenly may indicate a problem with your brake caliper or guide pins. When your brake pads need to be replaced, you may notice your car shaking or pulsing when you brake. This may also be caused by a warped rotor, so it’s best to replace both when you complete a brake job. When you’re ready to fix your brakes, check out O’Reilly Auto Parts. We carry brake pads, brake rotors, brake calipers, and more for a complete repair.

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Silverado brakes chevy for 2009

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2007 Chevy Silverado stuck front brake! Bad Caliper? Maybe not! How to diagnose it and fix it!

Well, never mind, they'll get it with a staff. For this one. right on the bandages.

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I babbled. May I ask. Ask. said the boogey. When can I go home.

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