Being starting fluid did not help, it sound like and ignition failure. So think distributor module, pick-up coil in the distributor, and the distributors can also have problems because of loss of magnetism needed for the pickup coil to work.
On these distributors the housing/upper bushing area can get so worn out that the shaft will move sideways so far that the points on the pickup coil pole piece get hit by the reluctor points on the shaft. When this happens the ECM receives compromised signal for RPM and timing issues.
|any possibility i could have messed up somethin jump startin another truck?|
The test results from these store are not always accurate, and some times the will say the module is good when it is not, but for a free test that may find the problem it is worth a try.
Make sure when you install or reinstall the distributor module that you use heat sink compound/grease under it. The compound helps dissipate heat from the module. Without it, the module will fail.
For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:
Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?
If it is modified from what came stock from the factory, let us know that too.
October 21, 2009Updated: March 23, 2021By: Abraham Torres-ArredondoArticle ID: 267
TEST 7: Testing The Pick Up Coil Signal
In TEST 6 you verified that the ignition coil IS NOT receiving a Switching Signal. As you might already know, this signal comes from the ignition module.
So the next step is to check the ignition control module. This is accomplished indirectly by making sure that the pick up coil is generating a signal.
If the pick up coil's signal is present, then we can conclude that the ignition module is bad.
If the pick coil's signal IS NOT present, then the reason why the ICM is not producing the ignition coil's Switching Signal is due to a bad pick up coil (this then exonerates the ignition control module as bad).
We'll test for the presence of the pick up coil's signal with a multimeter in Volts AC mode.
NOTE: You'll need to probe the female terminals of the pick up coil's connector. Be careful, that whatever test lead you insert into the female connectors does not damage them.
IMPORTANT: The battery must be in a fully charged condition for this test.
These are the test steps:
Put the multimeter's dial in Volts AC mode.
Disconnect the pick up coil connector from the ignition control module.
Connect the black test lead of the multimeter to one of the female terminals of the connector (using an appropriate test lead).
In case you're wondering, it doesn't matter which terminal of the connector you test with the red or black multimeter test leads, since the polarity does not matter.
Connect the red test lead of multimeter to the other female terminal of the pick up coil connector.
Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the AC voltage readings on the multimeter.
As the engine is cranking, the AC voltage readings should fluctuate between 0.3 Volts and 1.8 Volts AC. Oscilloscope users see image below of scope waveform.
Let's take a look at what your test results mean:
CASE 1: The multimeter registered the indicated AC Volts. This is the correct test result and it tells you that the pick up coil is producing its signal.
You can conclude that the ignition control module is bad and needs to be replaced if you have:
- Confirmed that none of the spark plug wires are sparking (TEST 1).
- Confirmed that the ignition coil tower IS NOT sparking (TEST 3 and TEST 4).
- Confirmed that the ignition coil and ICM are getting power (TEST 5).
- Confirmed that the ignition coil IS NOT getting its Switching Signal (TEST 6).
- Confirmed that the pick up coil is producing its signal.
CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT register the indicated AC Volts (or an analog waveform). Recheck all connections. Try again.
If you still have nothing. The pick up coil is faulty and the cause of the engine's no spark-no start problem. Replace the pick up coil.
Pickup Coil Waveform
If you have access to an oscilloscope, this is what the pickup coil's waveform should look like.
TEST 8: Other Misfire Causes
There are several other things (besides a No Spark problem to a specific spark plug wire) that can cause a misfire condition on your GM vehicle.
The things that you may need to look at are:
- Carbon tracks on the spark plug and spark plug wires (see images in image viewer).
- A broken spark plug
- This usually happens when replacing the spark plugs.
- Or the engine was washed when it was Hot and the rapid cool down of the spark plug's porcelain insulator caused it to crack.
- Oil or carbon fouled spark plug or spark plugs.
- This is the result of the engine burning oil from worn out piston rings.
- Low compression in one or more engine cylinders
- You can find the test here: 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Engine Compression Test (at troubleshootmyvehicle.com).
- Vacuum Leak from the intake manifold gasket.
- If your GM vehicle is the 4.3L Vortec engine (1992-1995) with the ‘Spider’ fuel injector set up, the fuel pressure regulator could be leaking fuel inside the intake manifold plenum.
- You can find the test here: Spider Fuel Injector and Fuel Pressure Regulator Test (at troubleshootmyvehicle.com).
Where To Buy The ICM And Ignition Coil And Save
The following links will help you comparison shop for the factory original ignition control module and ignition coil:
Not sure if the ignition system components above fit your particular GM vehicle? Don't worry, once you get to the site they'll make sure they fits and if they don't, they'll find you the right ones.
If this info really saved the day, buy me a beer!
How do I know if my distributor pickup coil is bad?
Engine stalling One of the first symptoms of a bad ignition pickup is an engine that stalls. An old or failing ignition pickup may cut out signal intermittently, which may cause the engine to stall. The engine may suddenly just shut off, almost as if the key had been turned off.
How do you check a distributor pickup coil?
On distributors with the pickup separate from the module assembly, you can check the pickup using your Ohm meter. Connect the leads from your Ohm meter to the 2 leads of the pickup. If you show a resistance of 50 to 200 Ohms, the pickup is functioning correctly.
How do you test a trigger coil?
Connect the red (positive) lead of the multimeter to the outer, positive terminal of the ignition coil. Turn the reading dial on the multimeter to ohms to measure resistance of the primary pickup coil. (The Greek letter omega denotes ohms.)
How do I know if my HEI distributor is bad?
Bad HEI ignition distributors give off some warning signs that can be diagnosed by the vehicle owner.
- Engine Fails to Start.
- Plug Wire Engine Miss.
- Reduced Fuel Economy.
- Weak Spark.
- Electrical Arc and Shorts.
- Hard Starting.
- Smog Check Failure.
How do you check a Chevy distributor pickup coil?
Testing the GM HEI Distributor Check the rotor and the cap for excessive wear. Check the coil tower for excessive wear. Remove the top plastic cap on the distributor cap. Use an ohmmeter and check the coil positive terminal to the metal case of the coil.
How do you test a HEI distributor coil?
Connect an ohmmeter between the TACH and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The primary coil resistance should be less than one ohm (zero or nearly zero). To check the coil secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button and the BAT terminal.
How do I test my HEI distributor pickup?
To test the pickup coil, unhook the two terminals carefully, test each one to see that they’re not grounded by hooking one tester lead to the wire, the other to ground. There should be infinite resistance. Now check between both wires. There should be somewhere between .
Does an HEI distributor need a coil?
A predecessor system called “Unitized Ignition” was optional on 1972 and 1973 Pontiacs. Most—but not all—HEI systems have the ignition coil mounted in the distributor cap. A control module and magnetic pickup are mounted in the distributor, in place of a conventional ignition system’s breaker points and condenser.
How many volts does a GM HEI put out?
The HEI just uses 12 volts. If it’s wired like points it will work on 9 volts but has problems being consistent especially at higher RPMs. If this has the GM HEI module, a high speed miss is not uncommon, it’s just on it’s upper limit.
Do HEI distributors go bad?
99 percent of the time, in the large, coil in cap HEI’s, it ISN’T the module “just going bad”, or even “getting weak”. The real problem is the coil degrading gradually, failure process called “layer shorting”, which rarely causes the module to go way gradually.
Why is my distributor not getting spark?
A Bad Rotor Or Distributor Cap (cracks or carbon tracks that are allowing the spark to short to ground). Often the distributor cap is suspect. Consequently, It could short out the coil voltage and cause a faulty connection inside the terminal of the distributor cap. The result is a misfire in the spark plugs.
How do you check voltage on a distributor?
Unplug high tension wire from coil that goes to distributor and insert a short spark plug wire. 3. Turn the ignition on and check with test light or volt meter at the battery side of the coil to make sure you have proper voltage there.
How do you test a distributor rotor?
Switch on ignition, but do not crank the engine over. Hold the coil HT lead near the tip of the rotor, and flick the points open. You will get spark as the points open. If the spark jumps from the HT lead to the rotor, then the rotor is bad and is grounding the spark to the rotor drive shaft.
How do you test a GM HEI pickup coil?
Click to see full answer.
Then, how do you test a Chevy pickup coil?
These are the test steps:
- Disconnect the pick up coil connector at the ignition control module.
- Connect BLACK test lead of the multimeter to one of the female terminals of the connector (using an appropriate test lead).
- Connect RED test lead of multimeter to the other female terminal of the pick up coil connector.
Subsequently, question is, what are the symptoms of a bad pickup coil? Engine stallingOne of the first symptoms of a bad ignition pickup is an engine that stalls. An old or failing ignition pickup may cut out signal intermittently, which may cause the engine to stall. The engine may suddenly just shut off, almost as if the key had been turned off.
Furthermore, how do I check my GM HEI module?
Turn the ignition ON. Touch the probe of the test light to the smaller terminal of the module--it's labeled "G" and had the Green pickup coil wire connected to it. When you pull the probe OFF the terminal, you should hear a snap (the spark) from the coil.
How can you tell if an ignition coil is bad?
Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Ignition Coil
- Engine misfires, rough idle, and loss of power. One of the most common symptoms associated with a faulty ignition coil is engine performance issues.
- Check Engine Light comes on. Another symptom of a potential issue with the vehicle's ignition coils is an illuminated Check Engine Light.
- Car is not starting.
Up coil 350 pick chevy
How to Take Off a Pick Up Coil on a 5.7L Engine
Many Chevrolet vehicles feature a 5.7L engine, commonly known as a 350 because of its 350 cubic inch displacement. These vehicles use coils to control the ignition system, which is mounted on the intake manifold. When the coil goes out, the vehicle runs poorly and the gas mileage suffers. To fix the issue, you must first remove the coil from the engine. In this case, the project vehicle is a 1998 Chevrolet Silverado with a 5.7L engine, but the process is similar for other 5.7L powered vehicles as well.
Pop the hood. Take off the wing nut in the center of the air filter cover to remove the air filter. Lift the air filter off the engine.
Locate the ignition coil on the passenger side of the intake manifold. Twist off the ignition wire on the coil using your hands. Depress the tab on the plug to unplug the wiring harness to the coil.
Unbolt the coil from the intake manifold using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket.
Drill out the rivets holding the coil to the coil bracket using the drill and metal drill bits. Remove the coil from the bracket.
- "Chilton General Motors Full-Size Trucks 1988-98 Repair Manual"; Thomas A Mellon; 1996
Things You'll Need
- 3/8-inch ratchet and socket set
- Metal drill bits
Russell Wood is a writer and photographer who attended Arizona State University. He has been building custom cars and trucks since 1994, including several cover vehicles. In 2000 Wood started a career as a writer, and since then he has dedicated his business to writing and photographing cars and trucks, as well as helping people learn more about how vehicles work.
More ArticlesSours: https://itstillruns.com/off-up-coil-57l-engine-7645845.html
How to Replace an Electronic Ignition Pickup
The electronic ignition pickup is located in your ignition distributor. The ignition coil delivers voltage by triggering a spark to each cylinder as the ignition rotor spins inside the distributor cap. Like most electronic components, the ignition pick up can show symptoms of failure by misfiring intermittently, or it can fail all at once. In some vehicles, the pickup can be replaced while the distributor is left in place. In others, it may be easier to remove the distributor.
Method 1 of 2: Replacing the ignition pick-up in the vehicle
This method involves leaving the distributor in place.
Step 1: Disconnect the battery: Remove the negative terminal on the battery.
Set it aside or wrap it with a rag as to not make contact with any part of the body or chassis.
Step 2: Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Unplug the ignition wire from the ignition coil to the center post of the distributor cap. The distributor cap is usually held on to the distributor by two screws or two spring-loaded clips. Select the appropriate screwdriver to remove yours. Once you lift the cap off, remove the ignition rotor, either simply pulled off or, in some cases, held onto the distributor shaft by a screw.
- Tip: If it is necessary to remove any or all of the spark plug wires from the distributor cap to make work easier, use pieces of masking tape to mark each cylinder number and wrap the pieces on each spark plug wire. This way, you are less likely to reconnect the spark plug wires in the wrong firing order.
Step 3: Remove the ignition pickup coil: Disconnect the electrical wires to the pickup.
Some vehicles may have a wire connector that you simply unplug. Others may have individual wires.
Once the wires are disconnected, remove the mounting screws. They can be located on the face of the pickup coil or on the outside of the distributor.
Step 4: Replace the pickup coil: Install the new pickup coil, making sure the wire connectors and mounting screws are properly tightened.
Reinstall the ignition rotor, distributor cap, and plug/coil wires.
Method 2 of 2: Pick-up coil replacement with distributor removed
ignition timing light
White-Out or a felt tip marker
Note: Follow steps 1-3 from Method 1 first. Disconnect the battery, remove the coil/spark plug wires, distributor cap and ignition rotor as described above.
Step 4: Unplug the distributor. Take care to mark the location of any wires or connectors necessary to remove the distributor.
Step 5: Remove the distributor. Using White-Out or a high-visibility felt-tipped marker, place a mark on the distributor shaft and a mark on the engine to note the location of the distributor before removing it.
Reinstalling the distributor incorrectly can affect ignition timing to the point where you will not be able to restart the vehicle. Remove the distributor mounting bolt and gently remove the distributor.
- Note: With some applications, you will be able to use a socket/ratchet or an open/box-end wrench to remove the mounting bolt. With other applications, there may not be enough room to use them. Those applications is where the distributor wrench comes in handy.
Step 6: Replace the ignition pickup. With the distributor on a flat surface, replace the ignition pickup, making sure all connections are properly secured.
Step 7: Reinstall the distributor. Installation is reverse of removal. Take care to be sure the markings you made in step 5 line up.
Reinstall the mounting bolt but do not secure it tightly at this time, as you may need to rotate the distributor to set the timing properly. Reconnect the battery once all wiring connections are secure.
Step 8: Checking the ignition timing. Connect the ignition timing light power/ground connectors to the battery. Connect the spark plug pickup to the #1 cylinder wire. Start the engine and shine the timing light on the ignition marks.
One mark will be stationary on the engine. The other will rotate with the engine. If the marks do not line up, rotate the distributor slightly until they do.
Step 9: Secure the distributor mounting bolt. Once you have lined up the ignition timing marks in step 8, turn the engine off and secure the distributor mounting bolt.
- Note: Make sure to not move the distributor while securing the mounting bolt or the timing will have to be rechecked.
If you need an ignition pickup coil replacement for your vehicle, contact YourMechanic for an appointment today.
This article originally appeared on YourMechanic.com as How to Replace an Electronic Ignition Pickup.
Skip the Repair Shop
Our Mechanics Make House Calls
Autoblog is partnering with YourMechanic to bring many of the repair and maintenance services you need right to you.
Get service at your home or office 7 days a week with fair and transparent pricing.
- Large clear food storage containers
- 2006 subaru legacy oil capacity
- Internal revenue code chapter 1
- Mitsubishi outlander sport 2011
- 2010 dodge avenger shifter cable
- 2008 pontiac g6 control arm
- Outline of a unicorn head
- Nfl 5 trading card game
- Witcher 3 witcher armor
- Oregon chain saw bars
- Omaha apartments for rent
- Skyrim stuck in combat
By the way, about the peasants. now for sure no one will risk them, they will not send them to any tasks. Most want to take part in the upcoming battle, which means the peasants will rise sharply in value. And when they are killed, the price of food will drop nowhere below.