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with Use - Fitting Stud Double Track L Control Cargo US L Pack 10 - Pounds 1,666 of Limit Load Working - Points Anchor Tie-Down Instant Create to Trailer Or Van, Truck, Your in Rails Track Tie-Downs various sizes
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with Use - Fitting Stud Double Track L Control Cargo US L Pack 10 - Pounds 1,666 of Limit Load Working - Points Anchor Tie-Down Instant Create to Trailer Or Van, Truck, Your in Rails Track Tie-Downs various sizes
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L Black Control Cargo US Track Pack 10 - Pounds 1,333 of Limit Load Working - Points Anchor Tie-Down Instant Create to Trailer Or Truck Van, Your in Rails Track L with Use - Ring D with Fitting Stud Tie-Downs,Accessories buy brand
Single Stud L Track Fittings are designed to create secure tie-down points on L Track rails. L Track, also known as Logistic Track or Airline Track is a versatile tie-down system used to secure a range of cargo. It is commonly installed in pickup truck beds, vans, and utility trailers to transport cargo such as motorcycles, ATVs, utility tractors, and much more. This L Track stud fitting features a D-Ring which is large enough to accommodate a variety of hooks, straps, and other connectors. A pliable black rubber covers the spring to protect it from rust and corrosion. The heavy-duty plastic base keeps the fitting lightweight and easy to handle, while the flanged edges make it comfortable to grip and push into place. This airline track fittings manufactured with a stainless steel ring and aluminum stud for excellent resistance to corrosion and rust. Once installed, it has a working load limit of 1,333 pounds, so you can tie-down with confidence knowing your cargo is safe and secure. The spring-loaded plunger-style mechanism is easy to use: place thumb inside the ring and push down on the stud while lifting the clip with your index and middle fingers. Insert the bottom disc into the desired round opening on the track. Slide the fitting in either direction so it's halfway between two of the tracks openings and let the clip fall on both sides of the fitting in the round slots on either side of the stud. To remove, simply lift the clip, slide to an opening and remove from the track. So, before you secure your cargo for transit, make sure you’re using high-quality and reliable L Track Accessories like this L Track Single Stud Fitting with D-Ring from ! Sold as a 10-pack.
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Using L-track for a myriad of storage options.
Many of my blog posts about building out RadVan as our DIY Adventure Mobile could easily be retitled- “Stuff I had to figure out on my own that I wish someone had written about and saved me hours of research, experimenting, and frustration.” This post is along the same lines. Hope it helps.
L-Track is amazing stuff. Lots has been written about the use of L-Track in campervan conversions to maximize function and storage in vans. I ended up using a ton of L-Track in RadVan to maximize gear attachment points and conceal wall and ceiling joints.
L-Track for those who are not familiar with it is a standardized modular cargo track system used in trucks, wheelchair vans, etc.
Once your L-track is installed, there are a variety of rings, hooks and attachment points available. All the L-Track accessories can typically be moved in 1-inch increments and removed in seconds.
One of the things about DIY campervans is that we all “learn as we go along.” I learned about L-Track by seeing it in some boutique custom vans and was immediately struck by how functional it is.
Uses for L-Track
The L-Track is used to hang modular storage cabinets from Adventure Wagon.
I used a strip of recessed L-track to make easily adjustable fork mounts for our bikes. We can easily hold four bikes underneath the platform bed.
Safely securing loads is the most important use of L-Track. In the event of collision, you don’t want anything flying around the cabin. Use L-Track to secure loose items not only to control clutter, but to keep anything from accelerating toward your head in the event of a crash or emergency stop.
Different types of L-Track
Over the course of building my van I ended up ordering several different styles of L-Track.
Left to right: Pre-drilled recessed (flanged), undrilled recessed, surface mount (undrilled), surface mount low profile, powder coated surface mount.
I ended up using the recessed style L-track on the lower walls and ceiling as a method of helping to hang the walls and to conceal the plywood joint. For the upper walls, bed rails, and door, I used surface mount L-track.
Side view of the some of the different profiles. (The camera distorted the end pieces to look narrower).
Drilled vs undrilled L-Track
L-Track is available in both pre-drilled and blank styles. Pre-drilled L-Track is typically drilled at 4-inch or 5-inch intervals. I ended up using both styles in different parts of the van.
Pre-drilled L-Track is great for flat surfaces with a continuous mounting surface. L-Track is mostly commonly available with holes drilled at 4 or 5-inches. L-Track drilled at 4″ intervals is likely overkill for a campervan in most cases. (In a commercial truck hauling heavy loads, 4″ attachment points are great).
I found that undrilled L-track is the most flexible for use in a campervan conversion, but adds extra steps in mounting. Cargo Equipment Corp is the only supplier that I found that has undrilled L-track available in 100″ lengths without a special order. If I had to build another van I would have special ordered undrilled low profile L-Track well in advance of my build (lighter with more rounded corners).
I ended up using pre-drilled L-Track in the lower walls and rear doors, and undrilled L-Track in the ceiling and upper walls. The structural beams that run across the ceiling and upper walls don’t correspond to regular holes.
There are two primary ways to mount L-Track into a van- Rivnuts (aka Rivet Nuts, blind insert nuts, or nutserts), and pop-rivets.
Use a drill bit stop!- Absolutely positively do not drill into your van without a drill stop.
The sheet metal siding in vehicles will easily dimple or chip the exterior paint if you drill too far. Trust me on this. I know from experience- when my DIY bit stop slipped. Even with a steady hand I’ve found that the last bit of metal lets go quickly and you’ll end punching all then way to the drill chuck without a good collar.
Double drill stop! Not optional when drilling your van!
There are different inexpensive drill bit stops available on Amazon or at your local hardware store. I doubled up on bit stops for extra safety as shown in the pic on the right. I found that the simple metal collar type can slip. My bit stop setup is as follows- Century Drill and Tool Adjustable Drill Stop on the bottom and a simple collar type on the top.
There are a ton of inexpensive drill stops available. Cheap insurance against damage to your van!
I used Rivnuts for installing my L-Track in most locations. I bought an Astro 1442 Riveter Kit from Amazon. Definitely worth the money if you plan on installing a bunch of L-track in your van. There are a number of online videos on how to install Rivnuts without a tool as well. The ease of installing the Rivnut with a dedicated tool is worth the time you’ll save.
The Astro 1442 in use
The Astro 1442 is a good tool that takes a few practice pieces to get the hang of. I’ve found that the Astro 1442 can easily tear the threads out of 10-24 and M4 Rivnuts. It can also destroy the threads of 1/4-20 and M5 Rivnuts as well. Do a few practice pieces to get the hang of it. Too much torque and you’ll damage the threads- Too little torque and your Rivnut will spin.
I have a love/hate relationship with Rivnuts. On the “love side” you can easily install threads on any sheet metal surface. On the “hate side”, the soft metal that allows the Rivnut to flare easily into sheet metal also makes for soft threads. I’ve had about a 10-20% failure rate on my Rivnuts, and have had to drill out and replace some of them. In general, the larger the Rivnut, the stronger the threads will be. Go bigger where it makes sense.
I’ve ended up using 10-24, 1/4-20, 5/16-18, and M8 Rivnuts in various places in the van. I originally started with the idea of keeping everything metric in the van, but found that some SAE sizes fit more easily into factory holes (either direct press in or with a minimal amount of drilling into factory holes).
Click pics below for full size-
I found that clamping the L-track to the wall (wherever possible) and drilling small pilot holes was the easiest way to install it. Since many of the Rivnut mounting locations are in asymmetrical locations, clamping and drilling through the L-Track to make a pilot hole worked the best for me to get an exact match.
Once the holes were marked, I removed the L-Track and marked it’s location and orientation on the back with a Sharpie. Then I drilled out the appropriate sized hole and installed my Rivnut.
The last step is to prep and drill your L-track (if using the “blank” L-track). For this I used a drill bit larger than my actual screw (5/16″ for a 1/4″ screw, for example) to give a bit of extra error correction. (I had a few holes that weren’t lined up quite right with the Rivnut and “fixed” them by widening out the hole in the right direction with a round file- often 1/32 of filing made all the difference). Then I countersunk my L-track holes with a carbide deburring bit from Amazon. The carbide bit works nicely for countersinking and I got about 50 holes in aluminum before it dulled. Pretty inexpensive at about $20 for a set of 4.
Here’s my L-Track mounting system” in bullet point format-
- Triple check the location of your L-Track on the van.
- Clamp it to the wall in actual location wherever possible (use ledgers if you need).
- Mark your Rivnut locations with a sharpie “dot”.
- With a small drill bit, drill through the L-track and barely into the sheet metal to mark its location.
- Remove the clamps and L-Track
- Drill out your Rivnut holes, prime or paint raw metal surfaces, and install Rivnuts.
- Drill out and countersink your L-Track.
- Test fit.
For mounting L-Track on the ceiling, I found it easiest to install one Rivnut into the L-track and use it to hold the L-track in place as I marked and drilled the rest of my pilot holes.
L-Track cuts easily with a reciprocating saw, jig saw, or angle grinder. I went a step further and bought a “non-ferrous cutting blade” for my miter saw from Amazon. Makes perfectly square burr free cuts.
Mounting L-Track with Pop Rivets
Pop Rivets are a much easier way to mount L-Track than Rivnuts. You’ll save a few steps with pop rivets but lose the ability to unscrew your L-track if necessary. Pop Rivets are not as strong as bolts, so use rivets only as a mount where you don’t need to secure large loads.
I used pop rivets to install short sections of L-Track in the rear doors (to hang a showerhead for outdoor showers or wetsuits to drip dry). I also installed L-track along the lower edge of the platform bed rails. There was a lot of potential unused storage space there.
One of the great things about L-Track is the mounting accessories.
There are a ton additional L-track mounting accessories as well. (Click link to open a window of L-Track fittings).
Integrating L-Track into your Interior Design
I’ve always admired beautiful rustic van designs. L-Track is anything but rustic but provides Swiss Army knife function to your van.
Functional- not necessarily sexy.
You can see here that I’ve used recessed L-track to cover the joint for my plywood wall and ceiling panels.
This strip of L-Track holds the wall panels to the wall with minimal screws and provides a ledger for the upper panels.
In order to used recessed L-Track this way you may need to glue a furring strip to the edges of your wall panels. The recessed flange on the L-Track is 1/2″ deep. I used 1/4″ maple plywood for the walls and ceiling (to keep weight down) and glued 1/4″ strips to the edges of the plywood with leftover scrap. I also applied a strip of felt to the inside corner of the L-track and to the back of the furring strip to prevent any vibration or squeaking at the joint.
The flange on the L-Track helps to hold the ceiling panels in place using minimal screws.
Integrating wall panels with L-Track
One of the benefits of L-Track is additional attachment points for your wall panels. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the L-Track pulled the wall panels nicely into the curved walls.
- Hole cutouts for the the Rivnuts
- L-Track Joint
Sprintervanusa.com has an outstanding blog and page on L-Track for more information.
Tagged as: Campervan, DIY Camper, L-Track, Logistic Track, SprinterLife, sprintervanlife, VanLife
Categorised in: DIY Sprinter conversion, RadVan, Uncategorized, VanLife
L-Track For the Win
How US Cargo Control’s L-track Enables the Van Build of Our Dreams
by Nick Davila, Vantastic Media. July 11, 2018
Tags: #DIY #Sprinter #vanlife
This post contains affiliate links
When Shelly and I decided to buy and convert a Mercedes Sprinter van into a tiny home, we hotly debated the best interior design.
It would have to accommodate a variety of uses, just like a regular house, with dedicated areas for cooking, working, sleeping – everything!
It was an exciting challenge but also nerve-wracking. Neither of us had designed or built a van, and we knew our first attempt wouldn’t be perfect. So we wanted a flexible, modular design that would let us make layout changes down the road.
The problem was, how do you build a van so that fixtures can be fastened securely and removed easily?
A key design challenge was how to fasten large fixtures like these, so they're secure yet removable.
Enter, US Cargo Control’s L-track System
Logistic Track, or "L-track" is a rail system most commonly used for tying down cargo like motorcycles, ATVs and other bulky items. It’s also known as “airline track” because a variant is used to fasten passenger seats on planes. The beauty of L-track is that it’s incredibly strong, low cost and it can be installed almost anywhere in a vehicle.
US Cargo Control is a leader in L-track systems with an impressive array of quality L-track products. We partnered with them because they'd like to see their products in more DIY vehicle conversions, and we like promoting companies that enable mobile lifestyles.
Phase One of our L-track system was to install 8 feet of rails on both sides of the van along the lower walls of the cargo area and make custom furniture brackets to attach to them. The rails would serve as the upper attachment points for several large pieces including our counter, galley, Shelly’s roll top desk and bed platform.
Here are the tools and materials we used and what we did!
- 16 feet of US Cargo Control L-track (We used eight, 24" pieces in black, but they're available in a variety of lengths and finishes. If we did it again, we'd probably use four, 48"pieces, like these, to reduce the time spent aligning shorter pieces)
- About 40 US Cargo Control L-track fasteners (1/4"-20 x 1-1/2" stainless steel bolts, nuts and washers) Each of the 24" L-track pieces we used had 6 pre-drilled mounting holes. Longer track pieces have fewer holes.
- Auto touch up paint
- Threadlocker (medium strength)
- 2" masking tape
- Sharpies / markers
- About 8 feet of thin, punched steel flat bar (like this)
- About 20 1/4" bolts, washers and nuts (like this)
- Position L-track where desired, and mark the L-track’s pre-drilled hole locations on the van wall
- Clean and prep drill zone: cover perimeter with 2" masking tape (to prevent scratches) and magnets (to catch metal shavings and avoid rust)
- Center punch marked locations, and drill holes using a 1/4" metal-cutting bit with a stop collar
- Deburr holes and remove excess metal shavings with magnets and vacuum
- Paint bare metal around holes to prevent rust; let paint dry
- Apply thread locker to bolts and nuts (to prevent loosening over time); insert bolts through L-track into holes
- Reach behind van interior wall and loosely thread a washer and nut on each bolt
- Once all nuts are loosely threaded, hold nuts with a wrench and tighten bolts with a screwdriver
That’s it! Track installed! We were immediately impressed with how tightly it fit on the wall. It felt like part of the frame.
Click pics below for more install details and tips.
It’s All About the Fittings
Once the track is fastened, you can clip in L-track fittings anywhere on the track in one-inch intervals. US Cargo Control offers almost every L-track fitting imaginable, though the only one we needed for our lower tracks was their double stud fitting with bolt thread. Thanks to its 3/8" fine-threaded housing, we can bolt fixtures easily into the track! The fittings are super strong with a 1,333 lbs working load limit and 4,000 lbs break strength.
We allocated 3 to 5 fittings for each furniture piece and snapped them into the track at strategic intervals. Next we jammed Sharpies into the fittings' sockets and slowly scooted each furniture piece towards the wall, so the Sharpies would mark drilling locations. We drilled 3/8" holes at each marked location, for our DIY furniture brackets.
Making DIY Furniture Brackets
Most of our furniture is made of wood, including a couple of hard-to-find vintage pieces. We don’t expect them to hold up forever (i.e. we like driving off-road), but we don’t want them to disintegrate immediately either. So we reinforced the rear of each fixture with thin steel flat bars, which we modified into custom brackets.
We bought the bars in 4' lengths and cut them into piece-specific lengths using a jig saw with a metal cutting blade. We fastened a pair of bars to the rear of each fixture (using 1/4" bolts, nuts and washers), like a sandwich. The bars had pre-punched holes at regular intervals, which saved us some drilling, but those holes didn't always line up with the 3/8" holes that we drilled into the furniture. In those cases, we used a step drill bit to widen the holes until a 3/8" bolt would pass through at 90 degrees and go into the L-track fitting.
We found that 2” bolts were usually the best length. They’re just long enough to go through both reinforcement bars and the wood, with washers on both sides and a jam nut on the back side, and still tighten all the way into the L-track fittings.
Our hands down favorite part of this project was pushing each furniture piece back against the wall and watching the bolts of our DIY brackets perfectly mate into the L-track fittings (which never happened on the first try). Widening the bracket holes usually made things work.
So far, we’re very happy with our US Cargo Control L-track system, and we think it’s an excellent solution to mount our fixtures.
We love how tightly it secures fixtures to our van, while letting us remove and replace pieces easily. The L-track system holds fixtures much stronger than sheet metal screws, it's more versatile than welded brackets, and it's more practical than an array of plus nuts.
Check back later to see our L-track install, Phase Two!
Have you used L-track in a vehicle conversion or have questions on what we did? Let us know in the comments below!
Van l accessories track
L-track pointers, please
thanks -- just knowing what terms to search for will help my mental image. it's been interesting going through the "virtual" van design process, in my head. it's given me some new insights into how i think -- i'm clearly a very visual person, and until i know what something looks like, talking about it all day won't help me much.
Swivel rings are the common connector for temporary securements. I use them for seat belts, bungees, roller buckle straps.
Threaded studs are typically used for longer term securement of bed frames, shelving, furniture.
Double-stud connections are used for more critical loads and have much greater strength.
Click to expand...
so your L-track sits above the floor surface? surely it must be annoying sometimes?
I'm too tall to have raised my floor any on my T1N. Just carefully chose the best spacing to bolt my L-track through the oem floor. That was ten years ago and I'd have been happy to have replaced the original floor but it has held up fine.
Click to expand...
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