Best street cam for ls1

Best street cam for ls1 DEFAULT

How to Choose the Right Pro LS Cam for Your Application

Summit-Racing-Pro-LS-Camshaft

(Image/Summit Racing)

Summit Racing Equipment has a new line of camshafts for LS and LS-based Vortec truck engines which consists of 10 different cam profiles for various performance applications.

The Summit Racing Pro LS Camshafts lineup includes:

  • 5 truck cam profiles
  • 6 automotive cam profiles
  • 2 LS3 rectangle-port specific profiles
  • 3 turbo cam profile

Summit Racing-brand parts are designed to be budget-friendly alternatives to other options without sacrificing quality and performance.

Want to see how these cams are made? Check out this tour of the factory making the Pro LS Camshafts.

The new Summit Racing Pro LS Camshafts are precision-machined from high-quality U.S. steel, and are designed to be easy on your valvetrain and run with lower-cost components, yet remain stable to over 7,000 rpm with a goodvalve spring kit.

So, if you’re doing a cam swap on a Gen. 3 or Gen. 4 LS or Vortec engine, you’re probably going to like these Summit Racing Pro LS camshafts.

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How to Pick the Right Pro LS Cam for Your Application

Cams are generally listed by duration, lobe separation, and advance. This muddies the waters and can compromise performance. Summit Racing Pro LS cams are designed with the specific timing events required by each application. From Stage 1 to Stage 4, you’ll find these timing events in exacting increments. This ensures repeatable performance and distinct behaviors.

For more valve event event theory read:

Important note: Summit Racing Pro LS Camshafts are not legal for use in California or other states with similar laws/regulations. Please check your state and/or local laws/regulations.

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Summit Racing Pro LS cams listed in this format:

 

Need a refresher on the valve events? Here they are in order of importance.

  • IVC=Intake Valve Closing. This event has the most control over the operating range.
  • IVO=Intake Valve Opening. This event has the most control over idle quality.
  • EVC=Exhaust Valve Closing. This event, in conjunction with IVO, creates overlap. It generally hurts low rpm performance, but is increasingly helpful at peak torque and above.
  • EVO=Exhaust Valve Opening. This is a compromise. Pressure on the piston before bottom dead center (BDC) helps, but works against you after BDC on the exhaust stroke.

Summit Racing Pro LS cams take the guesswork out of choosing the perfect cam.

Do you want to know what your engine will idle like? Look in the intake valve opening column. Want to know the rpm range? Look at the intake valve closing column..

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Summit Racing Pro LS Cams Printable Spec Chart

Detailed spec charts for every Pro LS Camshaft are listed in the continuing story below.

Here are those same specs in a single downloadable PDF:

Summit Racing Pro LS Cams Spec Sheet

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Summit Racing Pro LS Truck Camshafts

Pro LS Truck cams are designed to make power where it’s needed. The truck cams have intake closing points between 36 and 41 degrees after bottom dead center (BDC) for maximum punch where the converter hits.

  • The Stage 1 and Stage 2truck cams are designed to work well with the stock converter.
  • The Stage 3 truck cam works well with a stock stall, but a 2,500 is recommended.
  • The Stage 4truck cam makes great power with a killer idle. It hits hard at 2,800-3,000 rpm –and keeps pulling through 6,800 rpm.

Idle quality is important and your tuner will find these cams are easy to work with. They won’t lug or surge, and are designed to maintain part-throttle efficiency. You can get the idle you want simply by raising or lowering the idle speed a bit.

Next, let’s talk about valve lift and the springs that match.

  • The Stage 1 truck cam is designed to work with the original springs.
  • The Stage 2 truck cam will too, but Summit Racing recommends LS6 springs to extend the rev range.
  • The Stage 3 and 4 truck cams are also designed around the LS6 springs.

Why LS6 springs? The 405 horsepower LS6 had .555 in. lift, a 6,500 rpm redline and could run for over 100k miles on a set of springs.

***

Summit Racing Pro LS Automotive Cams

Next, let’s talk about the Pro LS automotive cams. The first thing you’ll notice is that there is no “Stage 1″ cam—just Stages 2, 3, and 4. That’s because most people willing to go through the time and effort of a cam swap want to see a bigger performance gain from their efforts than a Stage 1 cam will typically provide.

Cars are lighter than trucks with deeper gears, more converter. They often run headers.

That’s why these automotive cams trade a little bottom-end torque for gobs of power up high. One way to think of this trade-off is “adding duration,” though, as previously discussed, Summit Racing is being more specific with the valve events.

The intake valve closing points range between 43 to 50 degrees after BDC. Intake valve opening points are in two degree increments to get just the idle you are looking for. More on this later.

  • The Stage 2 cam is powerful, yet retains its road manners.
  • The Stage 3 cam is more aggressive and works great in your weekend warrior.
  • The Stage 4 cam is a bruiser. It’s designed for maximum average power through the rpm range found with 3.45-3.70 gears.
  • The LS3 cams are designed for rectangle port cylinder heads. They’re also designed to clear the LS3’s true flat-top pistons with minimum hassle. The Stage 3 cam allows you to mill the heads for more compression. The Stage 4 LS3 cam is designed for un-milled heads. Both are stable to 7,000+ rpm with the lighter LS3 intake valves and quality spring packs.

The Summit Racing Pro LS cams have more lift for better breathing. The Stage 2 and 3 cams are compatible with commonly available .600 in. lift spring packages. The Stage 4 maximizes performance with .625 in. lift.

Summit Racing Pro LS3 Stage 3 and 4 cams have .625 in. lift as well. These cams will pull cleanly to 7,000+ rpm with as little as 150 pounds at the seat and 400 pounds of open spring pressure.

***

Summit Racing Pro LS Turbo Camshaft

The Summit Racing Stage 2 turbo cam stands alone thanks to a totally unique design. The lobes are stable to 7,000+ RPM with .600 in. intake and .575 in. exhaust lift.

The exhaust lobes are a little less aggressive than the intake lobes. These less-aggressive lobes crack the exhaust valve open a little easier against high cylinder pressures, which takes stress off the valvetrain.

Because of higher turbine-inlet pressures seen on single turbo applications, overlap is reduced to prevent reversion.

***

Summit-Racing-Pro-LS-Cam-Install-in-engine

Summit Racing is testing these camshafts in practical, real-world engine builds. (Image/Summit Racing)

***

Sample Stock LS Cam Comparisons

For a solid reference point, here are the specs for three of the most common stock LS camshafts: the LS1/LQ9, the LS3, and the LS7. Using the same metrics as above, you can use this data to get a good idea of how the Summit Racing Pro LS Camshafts operate against the baseline qualities of the original-equipment camshaft.

***

What Else You’ll Need to Run a Summit Racing Pro LS Cam

The great thing about the Pro LS cams is that they are designed to work with proven, off-the-shelf components.

***

Stack-of-Summit-Racing-Pro-LS-Cams

To ensure you don’t have to wait on your cam, Summit Racing is keeping plenty of stock on-hand. (Image/Summit Racing)

***

Understanding the Importance of Valve Timing Events

Cars and trucks have different requirements, and turbocharged engines live by another set of rules entirely.

Yet another difference is how a larger displacement engine will soak up a bigger cam and maintain a smoother idle. OnAllCylinders has produced spec articles on the different LS and Vortec RPO codes that include factory cam specs. For comparison’s sake, the 4.8 and 5.3 engines started with cams around 191 at .050″ while the 6.0s were closer to 196 at .050″. Automotive cams had a larger range. From as small as 196 at .050″ in a 5.7L LS1 up to 210 at .050″ with the 7.0L LS7. We’ve included this information in the tables above to illustrate the differences.

Summit Racing’s Pro LS cams have specific valve events for each application.

In order of importance, let’s look at the four valve timing events.

  • Intake closing. This takes advantage of intake and exhaust manifold tuning and velocity. The truck cams close as early as 33 (SUM-8718) after bottom dead center (ABDC) and range up to 41 ABDC. (SUM-8714). This will increase low end torque. The Stage 3 (SUM-8708) and Stage 4 (SUM-8709) cams for cars close between 45 and 50 degrees for more top end.
  • Intake opening. Opening earlier increases airflow on the downstroke, but the downside is reversion. Notice the Stage 1 cam (SUM-8712) and Stage 2 Truck cam (SUM-8701) open the intake valve after top dead center (TDC) for a smoother idle. The earlier we open the intake valve before TDC, the rougher the idle gets. The biggest cams (SUM-8709 and SUM-8711) open at 7 before top dead center (BTDC), which is about as early as possible without having to flycut pistons. This being said, valve drop varies between cylinder heads and you always need to verify piston-to-valve clearance.
  • Exhaust closing. The truck cams close before TDC to maximize part-throttle efficiency. The Stage 2 Turbo Cam (SUM-8706) does to, but for different reasons. It prevents high backpressure between the exhaust port and the turbo from flooding back into the cylinder on the intake stroke. The larger automotive cams close as late as 7 after top dead center (ATDC) because they typically run at higher rpm, with headers and a free-flowing exhaust.
  • Exhaust opening. The larger automotive cams open closer to 60 degrees BTDC. At high rpm, we have less time to exhaust the gasses so we open the valve sooner. This relieves pressure that works against crank rotation on at BDC on the exhaust stroke. The truck cams open between 42 and 51 degrees for better part-throttle efficiency. These cams maximize the time cylinder pressure is pushing on the piston before the exhaust stroke occurs.

***

Tags: camshaft, LS, LS engines, parts bin, Pro LS Cam

Author: Brian Nutter After a stint in the U.S. Air Force, Brian Nutter studied at the Houston, TX-based School of Automotive Machinists in 1997. The early part of his automotive career included working for engine builders Scott Shafiroff and C.J. Batten, followed by several years developing performance pistons at Wiseco Piston Co. Today, Brian develops performance parts for Summit Racing Equipment and is a regular OnAllCylinders contributor. For fun, he runs his 427-powered C5 Z06 in ECTA land-speed racing, at OPTIMA® street car events, and at a mix of autocross, drag racing, and track days.

Sours: https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/07/06/parts-bin-summit-racing-pro-ls-cams/

Best street/strip cam for A4 01 ls1 ss?!?

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This is a discussion on Best street/strip cam for A4 01 ls1 ss?!? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Alright guys need some help to learn about cams and what would be the best street/strip cam for an A4 ...

  1. 08-16-2011, 04:17 PM#1
    Member 01SsRacing's Avatar
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    Best street/strip cam for A4 01 ls1 ss?!?

    Alright guys need some help to learn about cams and what would be the best street/strip cam for an A4 01 camaro ss LS1!?!
    2001 Camaro SS, LM 1, BMR LCA, relocation brackets, BMR springs, adj panhard bar, smooth below, lid, sub-frame connectors weld on, strut brace
    2000 WS6, ls6 intake, sub-frame connectors, slp maf, slp cat delete with slp y-pipe, electric cutout, strut brace, smooth below, slp lid, bmr LCA and RLB

  2. 08-16-2011, 05:16 PM#2
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    People tend to like the torquer cams v2 and v3. MS3 wouldn't be a bad choice either, there's plenty of options for you.

  3. 08-17-2011, 07:51 AM#3
    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    2002 Camaro Z/28 Pewter

    TREX!!!


    For real though we need a lot more specifics about what you want to recommend a cam. What stall are you going to be running in your car as a stall is necessary with any decent cam, is the car a DD, weekend cruiser or what? Is do you want it to drive smooth as stock or do you not mind the bucking that comes with a large cam? What mods do you have planned for the future?

    Before you get a cam you really "should" have a stall since you have an auto, a full exhaust system with headers (not absolutely necessary but its a good idea), and an intake lid. These mods will not only help your car now but a cam without doing these things is like making a milk shake and trying to slurp it through a coffee stirring stick. The cam sound will be there but it wont be close to its potnential because of all the other things weighing it down.

  4. 08-17-2011, 12:38 PM#4
    Veteran Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    "Best" is subjective and personal preference. Everyone's idea of too big is different. Plenty of proven combo's out there though.

  5. 08-17-2011, 12:46 PM#5
    Veteran Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    To get you started, there are a ton of different lobe profiles, and various combinations of duration and lift. No 2 cams are the same even if the duration and lift numbers look the same on paper. Every engine builder has their specific likes and dislikes. I'd confer with a few and get an idea.

    You can easily do a "cam only" with a good exhaust, and a stall converter to make an 11 second car without that much of a cam,,,say something in the 230+ at .050 range.

  6. 08-17-2011, 06:19 PM#6
    Member 01SsRacing's Avatar
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    Well the car is stock for the most part. has the slp lid,smooth bellow, mass air flow sensor, and plan on getting slp loud mouth soon. the car isnt a DD but still drive it a lot.

  7. 08-17-2011, 06:26 PM#7

  8. 08-18-2011, 08:31 AM#8
    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    I'd really suggest getting a set on longtubes so that you can properly benefit from a decent sized cam. With that said if you do a cam without a stall converter the car will be a complete dog and be more of a pain to drive. The stall converter will help get the motor into its peak hp rpm range quicker and also keep it there and it will also allow the idle to be raised for the cam without wanting to push through the brakes. If you dont want to do a stall or lt's your choices of a cam are pretty limited to the ls6 cam the old man cam or the cheatr cam these are all small cams with little to no lope and much better gains can be had by going with a cam in the mid 220's duration. You would still get great driveability, sound and power from a mid 220's cam without really making any sacrifices.

    My advice would be go read the cam stickies to help decide what you want then get a good stall converter and lt's. A good converter will easily take .6 of your et and the lt's will help pickup a good bit also. After you get these two and if the the car still isnt fast enough then get a cam and you will be much better prepared for it. Your car with decent tires, good air, your mods plus lt's and a good stall would hit high 11's with the stock cam on a good day. A cam without a stall converter will not net you really any gains in the 1/4 and may even slow you down because by adding a cam you sacrifice power down low in order to get much more up high, stall will help you take advantage of this.

    ls1 (v6 gauge cluster) with 3200 stall


    ls1 no stall
    Last edited by redbird555; 08-18-2011 at 08:41 AM.

  9. 08-18-2011, 01:25 PM#9
    Member 01SsRacing's Avatar
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    Been a Big help man! yeah I knew a stall would help but i didnt know you need that before a cam or that it would help that much more by getting it first then a cam. Now by getting a higher stall with everyday driving will that be a lot of strain on the car cuz thats my thing im not trying to do stuff that going to be a lot of strain you know what I mean?

  10. 08-18-2011, 02:45 PM#10
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    ji run a circle d 3200 stall but plan to swap in a 3600 or 3800 later since the ms3 cam I have would be better with the larger stall but the car drivers like stock with the 3200 stall till you mash the pedal then you notice the difference. Most people run anywhere from 3200 to 3800 depending on the cam and my friends ss with the circle d 3600 drives normal unless you hit the gas. Cam choice depends on stall and the way you want the car to drive but I would definitely get long tubes and a exhaust before a cam.
    1998 Trans Am 85k miles.
    Bolt ons, MS3 113LSA cam, Circle D Stall, Tune, Modified WS6 style hood, Full Suspension, 6000k HID's, Clear Side Markers w/ Leds, Led 3rd Brake Light and 18" AR Staggered Killer Wheels w/ BFG KDW NT's.- Weekend Toy/DD
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  11. 08-18-2011, 04:55 PM#11

  12. 08-18-2011, 07:05 PM#12
    Member 01SsRacing's Avatar
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    ALL great info guys! I want to find a shop that does a lot of work on f-bodys and ls1's. Idk if you guys have heard of mike norris... his shop name mike norris motorsports but he use to be pretty close it was a lil drive but not bad untill he moved up north. So im trying to find a good ls1 shop local that know these car and could help me with a good setup

  13. 08-19-2011, 03:54 AM#13
    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    mike norris is a great guy and used to be stationed right around orlando iirc and now lives in indiana. are you are around orlando? if so I'm at ucf and would be happy to give you a hand if you need anything. I've done pretty much anything to these cars drivetrain wise lol. if you do live in fl I highly recommend fti converters for you because they are made right in deland so you could actually go there and talk to greg while your converter is being made.

  14. 08-19-2011, 05:02 AM#14
    Member 01SsRacing's Avatar
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    My car has been to mike's while his shop was here was on the dyno n stuff. yeah hes a good guy. I also live in orlando where is this fti place. Im looking for a smart ls1 shop.
    Last edited by 01SsRacing; 08-19-2011 at 05:07 AM.

  15. 08-19-2011, 07:26 AM#15
    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    greg is over in deland off of i4 its about 30 miles west of daytona(he may know a good ls shop). I dont know of any good ls shops up there because I'm from south fl and just go to school up there plus I do all my own stuff haha. But like I said if you need a hand doing headers stall or whatever lemme know

  16. 08-19-2011, 10:36 AM#16
    Veteran Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01SsRacingView Post
    Been a Big help man! yeah I knew a stall would help but i didnt know you need that before a cam or that it would help that much more by getting it first then a cam. Now by getting a higher stall with everyday driving will that be a lot of strain on the car cuz thats my thing im not trying to do stuff that going to be a lot of strain you know what I mean?
    A stall is the best bang for your buck you can do to an automatic LS1. They are somewhat high strung anyway even with a stock camshaft. With just headers and exhaust, along with a good 3500ish converter and a tune, you'll have a solid mid 12 second Fbody without cracking the engine open. It will still drive daily and get respectable mileage.

    My SS vert was setup exactly this way, and got 26 mpg highway and 20 mpg city. Still had the stock 3.23's in it and went 12.76 at 107 mph on the original tires. Stickies would have dropped me into the 12.50's I believe.

    After all that's done, if mid 12's aren't enough for you,,,,at that point is when I would look at camshafts. Anything mild in the 230 @.050 range should put the car in the high 11's. A good set of ported cathedral port cylinder heads would make 11's even easier, and probably do it with a much milder camshaft as well.

  17. 08-19-2011, 12:34 PM#17
    Member 01SsRacing's Avatar
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    Do you go out to orlando speed world and race on test n tune nights its not far from ucf

  18. 08-19-2011, 03:06 PM#18
    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    No I haven most of my friends at ucf don't drive cars that merrit a track visit lol if u wanna meet there I'd be willing to go I'd like to see what my new ls6 swap could put up for numbers
    Last edited by redbird555; 08-19-2011 at 03:08 PM.

  19. 08-19-2011, 03:59 PM#19
    Member 01SsRacing's Avatar
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    yeah im wait for it to cool off and not have to worry about rain everyday. But once I do go my friend is turboing his is300 my boss has a 03 zo6 that wants to go and my friend is putting together a s14

  20. 08-19-2011, 06:45 PM#20
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    MS3 wouldn't be a bad choice either, there's plenty of options for you.

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Upgrading the factory camshaft is a great way to gain more power and torque. It's usually the next step after improving exhaust and the cold air intake.

Gains are reliable even when using very small camshafts. The increases are below:

LS1 - 20-50 rwkw

LS2 - 20-40 rwkw

L98/L77/L76 - 30-70 rwkw

LS3 - 20-40 rwkw

LSA - 20-40 rwkw

The numbers below are above what a tuned car with the stock cam and full exhaust upgrade would typically get.

When upgrading from a stock car, the gains are much higher, and on some models, the gains above stock (exh-OTR cold air- tune-cam) can be as much as 120 rwkw.

We have developed the parts we offer over the past 10 years to be the best available for the purpose.

Cam upgrades include the following parts:

Oztrack Camshaft
Dual Valve Springs with Light Retainers- Chromoly or Titanium.
Chromoly Pushrods
LS7 Lifters
LS7 Lifter guide trays
Head gaskets
Head Bolts
Dual valve springs give insurance in the case of one spring breaking.

​Chromoly pushrods give drivetrain stability and don't induce valve float at high rpm like the factory pushrods would.

Hydraulic Lifters are the Achilles heel of the LS engines and statistically, we have found the genuine (not replica) LS7 lifters the best. Often lifter failures of the wheel are more oil related. But often the lifter is the first point of failure. So it is worth changing them to new ones every chance you get.

​The lifter guide trays can also wear and allow lifter vibration so we choose to replace them as well.

The factory camshafts are designed for use with the standard exhaust and intake & are built to help emissions.

They have maximum valve lifts of between 467 and 551 thousand of an inch.

The best factory camshafts are in the LS3 6.2L, but there is still plenty of performance to be gained in the LS3.

Factory Cam Specs are below

LS1 5.7L
196/201 0.467"/0.479" 116

L76/L77
200/208 0.478" 116.5

6.0L LS2 HSV
204/211 0.525"/0.525" 117.5

6.2L LS3 cam specs are near
204/211 0.551/0.525 117

High-Performance cams with street-able reliability in mind usually have between 0.560 and 0.630 lift which provides bigger "gulps" of air during each valve event into and out of the cylinders.

​Oztrack's current custom cam offering is below.

Oztrack Camshaft Range

Most high-performance street cams will have at least 212 degrees duration (measured at 50 thou lift) and may even have up into the 240s duration. Cams of long duration gives much higher magnitude "gulps" of air when combined with the extra lift.

Camshafts are designed to precisely time to opening and the closing of intake and exhaust valves: this timing effects power output, rpm range, and idle quality.

If the intake valve opens early when the exhaust valve is about to shut, this helps drag extra air into the cylinders which can then be matched with extra fuel to make more power. This effect is called "overlap."

At idle there is a side effect of overlap, and that is contamination of the intake air with exhaust gas. The result is a choppy or lumpy idle. Undesirable in a factory car but usually admired by performance enthusiasts.

Streetable cams usually range from very mild and close to stock idle to as big as can fit in the engine.

Small cams usually have minimal overlap and 50 thou durations in the 210 to 225 range.

Mild cams 225 to 235

Big cams for a street car are above 235.

Small cams often make similar peak torque to bigger cams. They can also often beat them on a dyno until above 4000rpm. Mild cams often challenge the big cams to beyond 5500rpm.

Even small performance cams will make peak power 500rpm higher than the factory cam and can sometimes beat them for torque from as early as 1200rpm.

The radiator, harmonic balancer & front timing cover are removed. To create the space to pull the camshaft out.

It is also best to always take the opportunity to install new lifters, so the heads need to be removed first since the lifters are underneath. Once the heads are on the bench, it makes installing valve springs easier.

It is an excellent opportunity to clean the carbon buildup off the tops of the pistons and the combustion chambers in the cylinder heads..

Once the heads are back on the block, and the cam installed. It is essential to check lifter pre-load to make sure the pushrods are the correct length. The right Pre-load of lifters is critical and can minimize valve train noise. There is always some extra noise though.

Once the mechanical work is complete, it is best to have a tune flashed to suit the mods, and the engine started and checked. Plus coolant & oil levels topped up and corrected. Then the car can be tuned.

Most installers have done this job many times, and it is usually a 3-5 day booking.

Get more information about our drive in-drive out cam upgrade packages offered at Oztrack via messenger.

See our range of postal cam upgrade kits

Sours: https://shop.oztrack.com.au/blogs/information-articles/ls-cam-upgrade-information
How To Choose The Right Cam

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Ls1 best for street cam

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