Ender 3 pro slicer settings

Ender 3 pro slicer settings DEFAULT

The most important aspect of any 3D printing process is the first and the most foundational step i.e. making of a 3D design file.

It is obvious to say that the rest that happens is only a depiction of that 3D design file.

It is the 3D design file that communicates with the printer and tries to bring out the best from the machine.

A step that comes just before printing is slicing using slicing software. This is a step where the flaws in your design are recalled and pointed out.

So, if not equally important, this part is the second most important step in 3D printing a complete part or prototype. In this article, we are going to learn about Ender 3 Cura Settings.

The software recommended by the company that has manufactured Ender 3 is Cura.

Cura is a software that is a product of Ultimaker, the company that, apart from designing software, also manufactures 3D printers.

And, Creality is the company that has manufactured Ender 3 under its Ender series of 3D printers.

The starting point of how to set this software on the printer we will look up at how to set up the stock profile on Cura for the Ender 3D printer. And finally, load it up as a foundation.

For doing so, you need to first click on the Settings option, search for Printer, and then click on Manage Printers. In the second step, you need to search for Add and then Adding a non-networked printer.

The third step requires you to search for “Creality 3D”, expanding the selection, and then Selecting Ender 3.

This place will show the settings that you need to change for building your perfect profile.

It is a cliche that you would require to adapt to individual filaments and resolutions.

In this article, we will show the complete profile keeping PLA material in mind, but we will also mention at places, the settings for ABS as well as PETG.

Recommended Ender 3 PLA Profile

Recommended Ender 3 PLA Profile

All in all, you need to know about the printing temperature, bed temperature, Speed, layer height, retraction, infill, infill layer speed, and infill fan speed to know the complete ender 3 PLA profile.

The recommended print temperature for this printer using Cura is 200 degrees Celsius. And the bed temperature is 60 degrees Celsius.

The recommended print speed while using Cura for this printer is 50 millimeters per second. The layer height recommendation for this printer is 0.12 mm.

The retraction setting should be 6mm at 25 millimeters per second and infill has to be at 20 percent.

The initial layer speed needs to be at 20 millimeters per second and fan speed should be zero percent.

Specifics about Temperature and Bed Temperature

Specifics about Temperature and Bed Temperature

If the temperature of the 3D printer is not kept at the correct number, it can lead to over or under extrusion, depending upon whether it is kept higher than needed or lower.

Curling and blobs or zits are also some flaws that can take place by not keeping the temperature correct.

PLA filaments are known to require at least 180 degrees Celsius for a smooth extrusion and can stretch up to 220 degrees Celsius until over-extrusion becomes a problem.

Ideal temperatures for ABS is known to be in the range of 220 degrees Celsius and 250 degrees Celsius, whereas for PLA, the maximum temperature range decreases from 5 degrees Celsius.

Though, different brands of filaments can make a difference. Whenever you are trying to print with a new filament, the catch is to print with a temperature tower.

However, there is a general perception of using 200 degrees Celsius as an average printing temperature for PLA.

While you are calibrating your 3D printer you have to remember, not to change more than one setting at a time.

Overall, the general temperatures for PLA are 200 degrees Celsius, for ABS is 230 degrees Celsius and for PETG is 240 degrees Celsius.

This information goes in especially for Ender 3 Cura Settings and may change if the printer and slicer changes.

Click here for more about ABS vs PLA.

Why the Printing Bed Temperature is Important?

Why the Printing Bed Temperature is Important

It is no myth in the industry that adjusting the bed temperature of your printer is one of the most important aspects of 3D printing.

The bed temperature of your printer should generally be always higher than ambient room temperature. But, overall, the bed temperature is something that varies as the material does.

Most of the materials benefit from preheating, this goes even for PLA. Especially when you are using something for bed adhesion, things like painter’s tape, hairspray, or glue, is when PLA benefits from preheating.

The point to note here is that PLA does not need preheating if you have so, it is beneficial.

Your printer’s bed temperature should be higher for ABS than for PLA filaments. The recommended temperature should be somewhere around 110 degrees Celsius.

Another thing to take care of while using Ender 3 for building parts and functional prototypes for ABS 3D printing is that you’ll need an enclosure for eliminating excess cooling and prevent warping and layer spitting.

The recommended level of pre-heating for PLA is 50 degrees Celsius, for ABS, it is 110 degrees Celsius and for PETS, it is 70 degrees Celsius.

How to set up the Speed for Ender 3 Cura?

How to set up the Speed for Ender 3 Cura

Speed is a factor that is dependent on two different variables i.e. quality and time taken to print per job.

The quality is inversely proportional to your print speed. The reason for this phenomenon to occur is because, a slower-moving hot end on finer details is less likely to mess something up and in today’s time, some lesser people wish to wait two weeks for a single print.

For printing PLA, most users are known to print between 45 millimeters per second and 65 millimeters per second.

By using Octoprint or alternative firmware such as Klipper or Marlin, you can increase the speed while printing parts and functional prototypes of PLA.

This is very specific information that goes in especially for Ender 3 Cura Settings and may change if the printer and slicer change.

A starting speed, while you are new with PLA, is recommended on websites to be 60 millimeters per second.

Flexible materials are known to print at a slower speed than non-flexible materials.

Websites recommend a print speed of 20 to 40 millimeters per second. PETG material is known to be stingier than PLA, so for this reason, you can drop your print speed by 20 millimeters per second or so.

Websites say how 30 to 55 millimeters per second works very well. It is always good to start at a slow speed and then scale up.

ABS is also known to have the same print speed as is required for PLA. 45 millimeters per second to 65 millimeters per second is ideal.

In case you wish to print on a larger scale and require less detailing, you can also raise the print speed on your printer and raise it to 120 millimeters per second.

The travel speed can be raised in Ender 3 up to 150 millimeters per second without causing any issue with printing.

Overall, the recommended print speed with PLA is 60 millimeters per second.

For flexible materials like TPU, it is 30 millimeters per second, PETG parts and functional prototypes can be 3D printing using a print speed of 40 millimeters per second.

The print speed for ABS is 60 millimeters per second whereas, as mentioned above, the travel speed recommended for this printer is 150 millimeters per second.

What Layer Height is Best For Ender 3 Cura?

What Layer Height is Best For Ender 3 Cura

By all aspects, the layer height is an aspect of 3D printing which tells you a lot about how careful a company is in printing its parts or functional prototypes.

If the only limitation this technique has, it has to be layer height, because they are visible on all the parts and functional prototypes that are manufactured not just by Ender 3, but by any 3D printer.

In other words, this is an aspect that every manufacturer must take into account. When you make half the layer height, it doubles the print resolution.

The simple calculation is to make half the layer height, and in return fitting twice as many layers into a single print.

This information is something that goes in especially for Ender 3 Cura Settings and may change if the printer and slicer change.

However, having a greater resolution would bring you back to the same old problem of quality versus quantity, because the inverse to greater resolution is significantly slower print times.

So, the struggle is to constantly find the perfect combination of print speed vs layer height.

And that is something very very essential to high-quality prints in lower time frames. Layer height can be broken down into something called “magic numbers”.

Magic numbers are essentially layer heights that work best on this printer. These numbers are 0.24 mm, 0.20 mm, 0.16 mm, 0.12 mm, and 0.08 mm.

They are called magic numbers because all of them are multiples of 0.04mm. And the reason for associating it with 0.04mm is because the Z-axis stepper motor on the Ender 3 will raise the hot end by similar millimeters in every step.

If you wish to have fine detail on your part or functional prototype you need to keep 0.12 mm, whereas, for coarse detailing, you’ve got to keep 0.2mm.

Retraction Distance and the Retraction Speed

Retraction Distance and the Retraction Speed

For combating oozing and stringing in 3D printing, the best weapon is Retraction.

In Ender 3, this weapon of yours is broken down into two main settings called the Retraction distance and the Retraction speed.

It is a tool that reverses the extruder motor for relieving pressure on the nozzle during travel. We should hope here that even without pressure on the nozzle, no excess material should be extruded.

Ender 3 has a history of getting known as a 3D printer that has terrible stringing and the perfect setting to combat this was hard to find.

But that has been dealt with and online users have what appears to be the perfect retraction setting for PLA. And that setting is a distance of 6 mm at a speed of 25 mm per second.

PETG is a material that prefers a shorter retraction distance, ideally, around 4 mm while ABS benefits from a 6-mm retraction distance, but a faster retraction at 40 mm per second.

You can play with these settings and find the best ones for you. The information that’s mentioned is something that goes in especially for Ender 3 Cura Settings and may change if the printer and slicer change.

So, overall, the best layer settings for PLA are 6mm at 25 millimeters per second, for PETG, it is, 4mm at 25 millimeters per second and ABS is, 6mm at 40 millimeters per second.

Infill Ender 3 Cura Settings

Infill Ender 3 Cura Settings

Infill is a setting in slicer software that is bound to affect, both the strength and weight of your print.

Although there is no ‘perfect’ setting for infill, and it purely depends on the purpose of the print.

If you wish to have a lightweight print that is decorative you can drop your infill down to 5% or 10%.

What this would lead to is decreasing the print time and making the print significantly lighter.

Whereas for functional prints, you’ll want a higher infill setting to increase strength and durability. In such scenarios anywhere from 20% to 60% is ideal. And some prints may even require 100% infill.

The Conclusion

Hope the Ender 3 Cura settings discussed in the complete article are beneficial to you in your print.

Always take care of some points in your mind that no matter what is recommended to you, it is not that specific to work with everything that you print.

It is important to understand the specificity of the information that is being catered to you. And it is only from there, that your expectations should start building up.

If things are recommended for PLA and you are applying it for ABS, it is bound to fail. Even in case of where things are not specified, means there are still scopes and we too do not have the specific information about it.

In those scenarios, it is best to contact the company with the various options that are mentioned on its website.

Rather than experimenting with Ender 3 Cura setting, especially, if you are a newbie. In short, it is important to see the specifics of the information mentioned in this article.


Editorial Team

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The 3D Printer Bee

Martin

Besides many test devices, Martin now has his fourth own 3D printer running and prints as a hobby for friends, family and himself. He is happy to share his experience with each new article.

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There is no doubt that the Ender 3 from Creality is a popular printer. It is not only easy to use but also affordable. It also offers users many editing options. With its awesome price-performance-ratio, it can compete against more expensive models. 

However, users who want to take full advantage of the 3D printer need to look at the available Ender 3 settings and profiles in Cura. In this article, you’ll learn how to get the most out of your device.

To find the best Cura setting for your Ender 3, start with the default profile and test each setting until it is perfect.

The perfect Ender 3 profile is characterized by the following features:

  • Printing speed: 50 mm/s
  • Layer height: 0.12 mm
  • Print temperature: 200 °C 
  • Printing bed temperature: 50 °C
  • Retraction: 6 mm at 25 mm/s
  • Infill: 20 %
  • Initial fan speed: 0
  • Speed of the first layer: 20 mm/s

However, some of these settings depend on the filament used. The above-mentioned temperatures apply to PLA*. For other common filaments such as ABS* or PETG*, we explain the best parameters below.

Contents

Which Cura Setting is Best for the Ender 3?

The choice of the Cura setting depends on the desired result and the material used. It’s best to use the default Ender 3 3D printer profile as a starting point for customizing your options. This allows you to create a custom profile that fully meets your needs.

If you would like to know how to proceed in detail in this process, the following article will help you. Here’s a detailed tutorial of the best Cura settings for the Ender 3 3D printer, making sure that even a beginner can get up to speed quickly.

The Standard Profile as a Basis

First of all, it should be noted that users with the standard profile of the model are well-advised to start with. For all further modifications, you can use this as a basis. You can activate this as follows:

  • First, you click on “Settings” and then on “Printers” and “Manage Printers”.
  • In the settings box, click on “Add”, then select “Add a non-networked printer”.
  • Now scroll to “Creality 3D”, expand the sector and select “Ender 3”.

Now the default settings should be enabled so that you are able to create your own profile. However, you need to make sure that the resolution and filaments are adjusted accordingly. 

In the following, we will go into the individual settings and how you can optimize them. 

The Temperature is What Counts

There is no doubt that temperature is a key factor in 3D printing. If not properly adjusted, it can lead to over- or under-extrusion, blobs and zits. 

For a smooth extrusion of the filaments, at least 180°C are required. An overextrusion is generally only likely from 220°C. It is therefore not worth setting the temperature too low.

The choice of temperature for Ender 3 also depends on the material. For ABS*, a temperature range between 220 and 250°C and for PETG*, values between 220 and 245°C are ideal. 

Similarly, attention must be paid to the brand of the filament. If you are not sure about the temperature, you should make a test print. A small temperature tower will give you an idea of the compatibility of your settings. In general, 200°C is a solid average temperature for PLA*.

If you calibrate your device, you may only make one setting at a time.

Why the Printing Bed Temperature is Important

Attention must also be paid to the material with regard to the printing bed temperature. No heating is needed with PLA. However, the material can still benefit from a little heat – as a guideline you should remember 50°C. 

You can do without heating the printing bed even if you already use an additive for adhesion such as glue, painter’s tape or hairspray. As a guideline, you should remember that the temperature of the printing bed should always be higher than room temperature. 

The situation is different if you use ABS. In this case, it is recommended to set the printing bed temperature at 110°C. You should also consider building an enclosure. On the one hand, this will counteract excessive cooling and prevent layer splitting and warping.

A slightly higher temperature should be selected for PETG than for PLA. However, it should be below that of ABS. An average temperature of 70°C has proven to be best.

How to Set the Speed

Without a doubt, speed is an important factor for a respectable result. The challenge in this case is to balance print quality with the processing time per job. 

Keep in mind that with increasing speed you will have to expect losses in terms of quality. If the hot end moves slower, it will be able to work with more detail. However, it is important to keep an eye on the right dimensions. After all, very few users want to wait several weeks for a print.

The average speed of Ender 3 has proven to be between 45 and 65 mm/s. The print speed can be increased with OctoPrint together with alternative firmware such as Marlin and Klipper. A suitable starting speed is 60 mm/s. However, if your printout requires high accuracy, you should reduce this value.

A slow speed should be chosen for flexible materials. You should use speeds between 20 and 40 mm/s. This will ensure that the result is what you want and that there are no mistakes. 

It is generally recommended to make test prints in advance. This will show you whether the setting is appropriate for the material in question.

PETG is one of the viscous substances. So to counteract an unclean result, you should reduce the speed by 20 mm/s. If you want to be on the safe side, a value between 30 and 55 mm/s is recommended. But it is best to start at the bottom end of the scale and work your way up slowly.

With ABS, the print speed should be selected similarly to PLA. In this case, a value between 45 and 65 mm/s is just right. However, if it is a large print with less detail, you can even increase the speed up to 120 mm/s. The maximum speed for the Ender 3 is 150 mm/s. The printer should have no problems with this.

Layer Height and its Influence on Resolution

If you halve the layer height, the print resolution is doubled. In concrete terms, this means that you get twice as many layers in one print. However, this also has negative effects on the printing speed. The challenge here is to produce the highest possible quality prints in a relatively short time. 

With the Ender 3 there are values, which give the best results. Keep the following numbers in mind:

  • 0,08 mm
  • 0.12 mm
  • 0,16 mm
  • 0,20 mm
  • 0,24 mm

These values are multiples of 0.04 mm. With the Ender 3, this is simply because the system raises the hotend with the Z-axis stepper motor by 0.04 mm per step. For fine details that require rather slow printing, the 0.12 mm setting proves to be ideal. For faster printing with slightly less detail, 0.20 mm should be selected.

The Best Retraction and its Benefits

If you want to counteract oozing and stringing during printing, you should make use of retraction. There are two main settings to choose from:

  • Retraction Retract Speed
  • Retraction Minimum Travel

With this, you reverse the extruder motor. This relieves the pressure on the nozzle during transport. There is no extrusion of excess material, which ultimately contributes to a better result.

With the Ender 3, it is not easy to find the best setting for retraction at the beginning. After all, the 3D printer is known for strong stringing. Thanks to online users, this problem is now a thing of the past. At least for PLA, they have been able to find an optimal retraction setting. At a speed of 25 mm/s, a 6 mm travel should be selected. 

For PETG you should choose a shorter retraction of 4 mm, while for ABS you should choose 6, mm with a faster retraction speed of 40 mm/s. However, it may take a few tries before you find the best setting for you and your print. Again, it is recommended to make test prints.

Infill for More Stability

If you want to optimize the strength and weight of your print, you should consider infill. It should be mentioned right at the beginning that there is no such thing as the perfect setting. It always depends on the purpose of the print and the object, how much infill you should use. 

If it is a light, decorative figure, an infill between 5 and 10 percent is sufficient. The result is then much lighter, and you will also reduce the printing time. 

For an item with a functional character, however, an infill between 20 and 60 percent proves to be a better choice. It is sometimes necessary to experiment with this. Prints that require particularly high stability sometimes even need to be filled up to 100 percent.

The Importance of the First Layer

The first layer is very important for printing. To ensure a good quality result, it has to adhere well to the printing bed. If this is not the case, the print may fail. 

It is therefore absolutely necessary to adjust the settings for the first layer. This will ensure that the result does not become loose during the printing process. This is not only frustrating but also wastes a lot of time and filament. 

You should make the following settings to avoid bad adhesion:

  • If the thickness of the first layer is concerned, a value between 0.20 and 0.24 mm should be selected. This is because a slightly thicker first layer results in improved adhesion. 
  • The speed needs to be adjusted accordingly for the first layer. This should be slightly slower than the rest of the print. This gives the material more time to bond with the printing bed. 

The positive thing is that reducing the printing speed of the first layer does not affect the total printing time too much. Ideally, you should choose 30 mm/s for this. If this value still causes problems with print adhesion, you can reduce the speed further.

  • In advance you should determine how many layers you want to print slower. Usually five is quite sufficient. The same speed is used as for the first layer. If there are still problems with adhesion, add another layer of material.
  • You should set the fan speed to 0 percent at the beginning. If the first layers cool down too much or too fast, this can cause the print to shrink in the lower area. 

You may then have to deal with a warped result. The model will also jump off the printing bed as a result. For this reason, you should deactivate the fan at the beginning of the printing process.

Further Information

The Ender 3 is Also a Good Choice for Beginners

In general, the Ender 3 is a device that is easy to handle. With it, you can easily make all settings. The user interface is clearly arranged so that you can usually find your way around quickly. That’s why the 3D printer is a good choice for beginners. 

But before you dive into printing, you should familiarize yourself with all functions and profiles. Be sure to take a look at the basic settings and activate the default profile beforehand. Because with it you have a good basis for all further measures. 

Also, keep an eye on your model and its field of application. Because which option you choose always depends on the purpose the result has to serve. If you follow the advice given above, you should be on the safe side. 

If you are unsure, you can contact experienced users. They will help you to handle Ender 3 correctly.

The Properties of the Materials at a Glance

As you can see in the article, 3D printing with the Ender 3 is primarily PLA*, PETG* and ABS*. Which material you choose depends on your model and its application. 

PLA has the advantage that it is easy to process. It also forgives minor mistakes. Furthermore, the material is characterized by a more stable surface. However, PETG has a longer durability. In addition, it is more stable and can withstand higher loads. It is therefore particularly suitable for functional models that are frequently in use. 

However, PETG is more expensive and requires detailed printing. You should not make mistakes during this process. If, on the other hand, you want a softer material, ABS is the right choice. It can be plastically deformed more easily, which means that you can also correct mistakes later on. 

Drilling and milling should therefore be possible without problems. You can also use models made of ABS outdoors without any problems – the material has a comparatively high resistance to weathering. However, you should not leave it out in the sun for too long.

Related Questions

When Should I do Test Prints?

In general, it is recommended to perform a test print after making a new setting. In this case, you simply make a small tower of several layers. This way you can see whether the new option will convince you in terms of speed and quality. 

Test prints also prove to be practical when it comes to adhesion to the printing bed. You can use them to counteract later breakdowns and distortion of models. In the long run, you save time and money. 

Is High Speed Always at the Expense of Quality?

If you set the printing speed very high – over 100 mm/s – the printer cannot process the details of your model too accurately. But if the print is rather straight, you don’t have to worry about that. 

This is all the more true if your primary goal is stability. But regardless of the model, it is recommended to reduce the speed during the first few layers. This will not have too much effect on the overall duration of the print and ensures a solid construction.

Are Upgrades Available for the Ender 3?

If you want to expand the capabilities of the 3D printer, you should look for upgrades. You now have a wide range of mods to choose from. This gives you the ability to personalize your models with even more detail and customization.

Conclusion – the Best Settings Depend on the Printer

With these settings, you should have no problems when 3D printing with your Ender 3. However, you may need to do some experimentation before you find the option that’s right for you. 

Make use of test prints. Also, keep in mind that the appropriate setting can vary from model to model. After all, a decorative item has to meet other requirements than a functional product. 

If in doubt, check with other users for the best printing options to get the best results. Never be impatient when making prints. Make sure that speed is not at the expense of quality. 

If in doubt, select a slow printing speed. It is also not always easy for beginners to find the right balance between stability and material consumption. Here, too, you may need to try a few things until you find the right value for you.


Disclosure: This website is the property of Martin Lütkemeyer and is operated by Martin Lütkemeyer. Martin Lütkemeyer is a member of the Amazon Services LLC and other Affiliate Programs. These are affiliate advertising programs designed to enable websites to earn advertising revenue through advertising and linking to Amazon.com and others. Links marked with * are affiliate links.

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Trying to get the best settings in Cura for the Ender 3 can be quite challenging, especially if you don’t have a lot of experience with 3D printing.

I decided to write this article to help people who are a little confused on what settings they should be using for their 3D printer, whether they have an Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, or Ender 3 V2.

Keep reading through this article for some guidance on getting the best Cura settings for your 3D printer.

What is a Good Print Speed for a 3D Printer (Ender 3)?

A good print speed for decent quality and speed usually ranges between 40mm/s and 60mm/s depending on your 3D printer. For the best quality, going down to 30mm/s works well, while for faster 3D prints, you can use a print speed of 100mm/s. Print speeds can differ depending on what material you are using.

Print speed is an important setting in 3D printing that factors in with how long your 3D prints will take overall. It consists of a many speeds of specific sections of your print such as:

  • Infill Speed
  • Wall Speed
  • Top/Bottom Speed
  • Support Speed
  • Travel Speed
  • Initial Layer Speed
  • Skirt/Brim Speed

There are also a few more speeds sections under some of these settings where you can get even more precise in controlling print speeds of your parts.

Cura gives you a default Print Speed of 50mm/s and it doesn’t really need to be changed, though when you want to start tweaking settings and get faster prints, this is one that many will adjust.

When you adjust your main Print Speed setting, these other settings will change according to Cura calculations:

  • Infill Speed – stays the same as the Print Speed.
  • Wall Speed, Top/Bottom Speed, Support Speed – half of your Print Speed
  • Travel Speed – defaults at 150mm/s until you go past a Print Speed of 60mm/s. Then goes up by 2.5mm/s for every increase of 1mm/s in Print Speed until it caps out at 250mm/s.
  • Initial Layer Speed, Skirt/Brim Speed – defaults at 20mm/s and is not affected by changes in Print Speed

Generally speaking, the slower your print speed, the better the quality of your 3D prints will be.

If you are looking for a 3D print to be higher quality, you can go down to a Print Speed of around 30mm/s, while for a 3D print that you want as quick as possible, you can go up to 100mm/s and beyond in some cases.

When you do increase your print speed to 100mm/s, the quality of your 3D prints can quickly decrease mainly based on vibrations from the movement and weight of the 3D printer parts.

The lighter your printer is, the fewer vibrations (ringing) you’ll get, so even having a heavy glass bed can increase print imperfections from speed.

The way your Print Speed translates to quality definitely depends on your specific 3D printer, your setup, the stability of the frame and surface it’s sitting on, and the type of 3D printer itself.

Delta 3D printers like the FLSUN Q5 (Amazon) can handle higher speeds a lot easier than let’s say an Ender 3 V2.


If you do 3D print at lower speeds, you want to lower your printing temperature accordingly since the material will be under the heat for a longer time. It shouldn’t need too much of an adjustment, but it’s something to keep in mind as you adjust your print speeds.

One test that people do to see the impact of higher speeds on print quality is a Speed Test Tower from Thingiverse.

Here is how the Speed Test Tower looks in Cura.

How to Improve 3D Benchy Quality - Speed Test Tower - 3D Printerly

The cool thing about this is how you can insert scripts after each tower to automatically adjust print speeds as the object prints, so you don’t have to do it manually. It’s a great way to calibrate your speed and see what level of quality you’d be happy with.

Although the values are 20, 40, 60, 80, 100, you can set your own values within the Cura script. The instructions are shown on the Thingiverse page.

What is the Best Printing Temperature for 3D Printing?

The best temperature for 3D printing is based on the filament you are using, which tends to be between 180-220°C for PLA, 230-250°C for ABS and PETG, and between 250-270°C for Nylon. Within these temperature ranges, we can narrow down the best printing temperature by using a temperature tower and comparing quality.

When you purchase your roll of filament, the manufacturer makes our jobs easier by giving us a specific printing temperature range on the box. This means we can find the best printing temperature for our specific material pretty easily.

Some examples below of manufacture printing recommendations are:

Do keep in mind that the type of nozzle you are using has an effect on the real temperature that is being produced. For example, a brass nozzle which is the standard for 3D printers is a great conductor of heat, meaning it transfers heat better.

If you switch to a nozzle like a hardened steel nozzle, you’d want to increase your printing temperature by 5-10°C because hardened steel doesn’t transfer heat as well as brass.

Hardened steel is better used for abrasive filaments like Carbon Fiber or glow-in-the-dark filament since it has better durability than brass. For standard filaments like PLA, ABS, and PETG, brass works great.

Once you get that perfect printing temperature for your 3D prints, you should notice a lot more successful 3D prints and fewer print imperfections.

We avoid issues like oozing in 3D prints when using a temperature too high, as well as issues like under-extrusion when you use low temperatures.

Once you get that range, it’s usually a good idea to go right in the middle and start printing, but there is an even better option.

To find the best printing temperature with more accuracy, there is a thing called a temperature tower which allows us to easily compare quality from different printing temperatures.

It looks something like this:

How to Improve 3D Benchy Quality - PLA Temperature Tower - 3D Printerly

I’d recommend printing the temperature tower directly in Cura, though you can still use a temperature tower from Thingiverse if you want.

Follow the video below by CHEP to get the Cura temperature tower. The title refers to retraction settings in Cura but also goes through the temperature tower part of things.

What is the Best Bed Temperature for 3D Printing?

The best bed temperature for 3D printing is according to the filament you’re using. For PLA, anywhere from 20-60°C works best, while 80-110°C is recommended for ABS as it is a more heat-resistant material. For PETG, a bed temperature between 70-90°C is a great choice.  

A heated bed is important for a number of reasons in 3D printing. For starters, it promotes bed adhesion and improves the quality of prints, allowing them to have a better chance of success with printing and even being removed from the build platform better.

In terms of finding the best heat bed temperature, you’ll want to turn to your material and its manufacturer. Let’s take a look at some top-rated filaments on Amazon and their recommended bed temperature.

Apart from enhancing the quality of your prints, a good bed temperature can take away many print imperfections as well that cause some print failures.

It can help with common print imperfections like elephant’s foot, which is when the first few layers of your 3D print are squashed down.

Decreasing your bed temperature when it is too high is a great solution to this issue, leading to better print quality and more successful prints.

You want to make sure you don’t have your bed temperature too high though because it can cause your filament to not cool down fast enough, leading to a layer that isn’t so sturdy. The next layers ideally want to have a good foundation beneath it.

Sticking within the range of what your manufacturer advises should set you on the path of getting the bed temperature for your 3D prints.

What Are the Best Retraction Distance & Speed Settings?

Retraction settings are when your 3D printer pulls filament back inside the extruder to avoid the melted filament moving out of the nozzle while the print head is moving.

Retraction settings are useful for increasing the quality of prints and to reduce the occurrence of print imperfections like stringing, oozing, blobs, and zits.

Found under the “Travel” section in Cura, Retraction has to be enabled first. After doing so, you’ll be able to adjust Retraction Distance and Retraction Speed.

Best Settings for 3D Printer - Cura Retraction Settings - 3D Printerly

Best Retraction Distance Setting

Retraction Distance or Length is how far the filament is pulled back in the hot end within the extrusion path. The best retraction setting depends on your specific 3D printer and whether you have a Bowden-style or a Direct Drive extruder.

For Bowden extruders, the Retraction Distance is best set between 4mm-7mm. For 3D printers that use a Direct Drive setup, the recommended Retraction Length range is 1mm-4mm. 

The default Retraction Distance value in Cura is 5mm. Reducing this setting would mean that you’re pulling the filament back in the hot end less, while increasing it would simply lengthen how far the filament is pulled back.

An extremely small Retraction Distance would mean that the filament isn’t pushed back enough and would cause string. Similarly, a too high value of this setting could jam or clog your extruder nozzle.

What you can do is begin at the middle of these ranges, depending on what extrusion system you have. For Bowden-style extruders, you can test your prints at a Retraction Distance of 5mm and check how the quality turns out.

An even better way to calibrate your Retraction Distance is by printing a retraction tower in Cura as shown in the video in the previous section. Doing so would drastically increase your chances of getting the best Retraction Distance value for your 3D printer.

Here is the video again so you can follow the retraction calibration steps.

The retraction tower is composed of 5 blocks, each indicating a specific Retraction Distance or Speed value that you set. You can begin printing the tower at 2mm and work your way up with 1mm increments.

After finishing, check yourself which parts of the tower look the highest quality. You can also choose to determine the top 3 and print a retraction tower one more time using those 3 best values, then using more precise increments.

Best Retraction Speed Setting

Retraction Speed is simply the speed at which the filament is pulled back in the hot end. Right alongside Retraction Length, Retraction Speed is a fairly important setting that’s needed to be looked at.

For Bowden extruders, the best Retraction Speed is between 40-70mm/s. If you have a Direct Drive extruder setup, the recommended Retraction Speed range is 20-50mm/s. 

Generally speaking, you want to have a Retraction Speed as high as possible without grinding the filament in the feeder. When you move the filament at a higher speed, your nozzle stays still for less time, resulting in smaller blobs/zits and print imperfections.

When you set your Retraction Speed too high though, the force that is produced by your feeder is so high that the feeder wheel can grind into the filament, reducing the success rate of your 3D prints.

The default Retraction Speed value in Cura is 45mm/s. This is a good place to start, but you can get the best Retraction Speed for your 3D printer by printing a retraction tower, just like in Retraction Distance.

Only this time, you would be optimizing the speed instead of distance. You can start at 30mm/s and go up using 5mm/s increments to print the tower.

After finishing the print, you would again get the 3 best-looking Retraction Speed values and print another tower using those values. After proper inspection, you’ll find the best Retraction Speed for your 3D printer.

What is the Best Layer Height for a 3D Printer?

The best layer height for a 3D printer is between 25% to 75% of your nozzle diameter. For a balance between speed and detail, you want to go with the default 0.2mm Layer Height in Cura. For increased resolution and detail, you can use a 0.1mm Layer Height for quality results. 

Layer height is simply the thickness of each layer of filament in millimeters. It is the setting which is most important when balancing the quality of your 3D models with the printing time.

The thinner each layer of your model is, the more detail and accuracy the model will have. With filament 3D printers, you tend to have a maximum layer height of either 0.05mm or 0.1mm for resolution.

Since we tend to use a range of 25-75% of our nozzle diameter for layer height, we would need to change out the standard 0.4mm nozzle if you want to go down to those 0.05mm layer heights, to a 0.2mm nozzle.

If you do choose to use such a small layer height, you should expect a 3D print to take several times longer than usual.

When you think about how many layers are extruded for a 0.2mm Layer Height vs a 0.05mm Layer Height, it would need 4 times as many layers, which means 4 times the overall printing time.

Cura has a default Layer Height of 0.2mm for a 0.4mm nozzle diameter which is a safe 50%. This layer height offers a great balance of good detail and fairly fast 3D prints, though you can adjust it depending on your desired outcome.

For models like statues, busts, characters, and figures, it makes sense to use a lower layer height to capture the vital details that make these models look realistic.

For models like a headphone stand, a wall mount, a vase, holders of some kind, a 3D printed clamp, and so on, you are better off using a larger layer height like 0.3mm and above to improve printing time rather than unnecessary details.

What is a Good Line Width for 3D Printing?

A good Line Width for 3D printing is between 0.3-0.8mm for a standard 0.4mm nozzle. For improved part quality and high details, a low Line Width value such as 0.3mm is the one to go for. For better bed adhesion, thicker extrusions, and strength, a large Line Width value like 0.8mm works well.

Line Width is simply how wide your 3D printer prints each line of filament. It is dependent on the diameter of the nozzle and dictates how high quality your part will be in the X and Y direction.

Most people use a 0.4mm nozzle diameter and subsequently set their Line Width to 0.4mm, which also happens to be the default value in Cura.

The minimum Line Width value you can use is 60% while the maximum is around 200% of your nozzle diameter. A smaller Line Width value of 60-100% makes thinner extrusions and possibly produces parts with better accuracy.

However, such parts may not have the most strength. For that, you can try increasing your Line Width to around 150-200% of your nozzle for models that will play a more mechanical and functional role.

You can tweak your Line Width according to your use case to get better results in terms of either strength or quality. Another situation where increasing the Line Width helps is when there are gaps in your thin walls.

This is definitely a trial and error type of setting where you’ll want to try printing out the same model a few times while adjusting the Line Width. It’s always good to understand what changes in your print settings actually make in the final models.

What is a Good Flow Rate for 3D Printing?

You want your Flow rate to stay at 100% in most cases because an adjustment in this setting is usually compensation for an underlying problem that needs to be fixed. An increase in Flow rate is usually for a short-term fix like a clogged nozzle, as well as under or over extrusion. A usual range of 90-110% is used.

Flow or Flow Compensation in Cura is depicted by a percentage and is the actual amount of filament that is extruded from the nozzle. A good Flow rate is 100% which is the same as the default Cura value.

The main reason one would adjust the flow rate is to make up for an issue in the extrusion train. An example here would be a clogged nozzle.

Increasing the Flow Rate to about 110% could help if you’re experiencing under-extrusion. If there’s some sort of a block in the extruder nozzle, you can get more filament to push out and penetrate the clog with a higher Flow value.

On the other side, decreasing your Flow Rate to about 90% can help with over-extrusion which is when an excessive amount of filament is extruded from the nozzle, leading to a host of print imperfections.

The video below shows a fairly simple way to calibrate your Flow Rate, which consists of 3D printing a simple open cube and measuring the walls with a pair of Digital Calipers.

I’d recommend going with a simple option like the Neiko Electronic Caliper with 0.01mm precision.

Under Shell settings in Cura, you should set a Wall Thickness of 0.8mm and a Wall Line Count of 2, as well as a Flow of 100%.

Another thing you can do you calibrate your Flow is to print a Flow Test tower in Cura. You can print it under 10 minutes so it’s a pretty easy test to find the best Flow Rate for your 3D printer.

You can start at 90% Flow and work your way up to 110% using 5% increments. Here’s what the Flow Test tower in Cura looks like.

Flow Test Tower

All things considered, Flow is more of a temporary fix to print problems rather than a permanent one. This is why it’s important to deal with the actual cause behind under or over-extrusion.

In that case, you might want to calibrate your extruder altogether.

I’ve written a complete guide on How to Calibrate Your 3D Printer so be sure to check that out to read all about adjusting your E-steps, and much more.

What are the Best Infill Settings for a 3D Printer?

The best Infill Settings are based on your use case. For strength, high durability, and mechanical function, I recommend an Infill Density between 50-80%. For improved printing speed and not much strength, people usually go with 8-20% Infill Density, though some prints can handle 0% infill.

Infill Density is simply how much material and volume is inside of your prints. It’s one of the key components for improved strength and printing time that you can adjust, so it’s a good idea to learn about this setting.

The higher your infill Density, the stronger your 3D prints will be, though it brings diminishing returns in strength the higher the percentage used. For example, an Infill Density of 20% to 50% won’t bring the same strength improvements as 50% to 80%.

You can save plenty of material by using the optimal amount of infill, as well as decrease printing time.

It’s important to keep in mind that Infill Densities work very differently depending on the Infill Pattern you are using. A 10% Infill Density with the Cubic pattern is going to be a lot different from 10% Infill Density with the Gyroid Pattern.

As you can see with this Superman model, a 10% Infill Density with the Cubic pattern takes 14 hours and 10 minutes to print, while the Gyroid pattern at 10% takes 15 hours and 18 minutes.

Best Settings for 3D Printer - 10% Cubic Pattern - 3D Printerly
Best Settings for 3D Printer - 10% Gyroid Pattern - 3D Printerly

As you can see, the Gyroid infill pattern looks denser than the Cubic pattern. You can see how dense your model’s infill will be by clicking on the “Preview” tab after you slice your model.

There will also be a “Preview” button next to the “Save to Disk” button on the bottom right.

Best Settings for 3D Printer - Cura Preview Model Infill - 3D Printerly

When you use too little infill though, the structure of the model can suffer because above layers don’t get the best support from below. When you think of your infill, it is technically a supporting structure for layers above.

If your Infill Density creates many gaps in the model when you see the preview of the model, you can get print failures, so make sure your model is well-supported from the inside if needed.

If you’re printing thin walls or spherical shapes, you can even use 0% Infill Density since there will be no gaps to bridge.

What is the Best Infill Pattern in 3D Printing?

The best Infill Pattern for strength is the Cubic or Triangle Infill Pattern since they provide great strength in multiple directions. For quicker 3D prints, the best Infill Pattern would be Lines. Flexible 3D prints can benefit from using the Gyroid Infill Pattern.

Infill Patterns are a way to define the structure which fills up your 3D printed objects. There are specific use cases for different patterns out there, whether for flexibility, strength, speed, a smooth top surface, and so on.

The default Infill Pattern in Cura is the Cubic pattern which is a great balance of strength, speed, and overall print quality. It is considered the best infill pattern by many 3D printer users.

Let’s now take a look at some of the best Infill Patterns in Cura.

Grid

Grid produces two sets of lines that are perpendicular to each other. It’s one of the most commonly used Infill Pattern right alongside Lines and has impressive traits such as great strength and giving you a smoother top surface finish.

Lines

Being one of the best Infill Patterns, Lines forms parallel lines and creates a decent top surface finish with satisfactory strength. You can use this Infill Pattern for an all-rounder use case.

It does happen to be weaker in the vertical direction for strength but is great for faster printing.

Triangles

The Triangles pattern is a good option if you’re looking for high strength and shear resistance in your models. However, at a higher Infill Density, the level of strength does drop since the flow gets interrupted due to intersections.

One of the best qualities of this Infill Pattern is that it has equal strength in every horizontal direction, but it does require more top layers for an even top surface since the top lines have relatively long bridges.

Cubic

The Cubic pattern is a great structure that creates cubes and is a 3-dimensional pattern. They generally have equal strength in all directions and have a good amount of strength overall. You can get pretty good top layers with this pattern, which is great for quality.

Concentric

The Concentric pattern forms a ring-type pattern that’s closely parallel to the walls of your prints. You can use this pattern when printing flexible models to create fairly strong prints.

Gyroid

The Gyroid pattern forms wave-like shapes throughout the Infill of your model and is highly recommended when printing flexible objects. Another great use for the Gyroid pattern is with water-soluble support materials.

Additionally, Gyroid has a good balance of strength and shear resistance.

What is the Best Shell/Wall Settings for 3D Printing?

Wall settings or Wall Thickness is simply how thick the outer layers of a 3D printed object will be in millimeters. It doesn’t just mean the exterior of the whole 3D print, but every part of the print in general.

Wall settings are one of the most crucial factors for how strong your prints will be, even more so then infill in many cases. Larger objects benefit the most by having a higher Wall Line Count and overall Wall Thickness.

The best wall settings for 3D printing is to have a Wall Thickness of at least 1.6mm for reliable strength performance. Wall Thickness is rounded up or down to the nearest multiple of the Wall Line Width. Using a higher Wall Thickness will improve the strength of your 3D prints significantly.

With the Wall Line Width, it is known that slightly reducing it to below your nozzle diameter can benefit the strength of your 3D prints.

Although you will be printing thinner lines on the wall, there is an overlapping aspect with adjacent wall lines which pushes aside the other walls to the optimal location. It has an effect of making the walls fuse together better, leading to more strength in your prints.

Another benefit of reducing your Wall Line Width is allowing your nozzle to produce more accurate details, especially on the outer walls.

What Are the Best Initial Layer Settings in 3D Printing?

There are many initial layer settings that are adjusted specifically to improve your first layers, which are the foundation of your model.

Some of these settings are:

  • Initial Layer Height
  • Initial Layer Line Width
  • Printing Temperature Initial Layer
  • Initial Layer Flow
  • Initial Fan Speed
  • Top/Bottom Pattern or Bottom Pattern Initial Layer

For the most part, your initial layer settings should be done to a pretty good standard by just using the default settings in your slicer, but you can definitely make some adjustments to slightly improve your success rate when it comes to 3D printing.

Whether you have an Ender 3, Prusa i3 MK3S+, Anet A8, Artillery Sidewinder and so on, you can benefit from getting this right.

The first thing you want to do before even getting the best initial layer settings is to make sure you have a nice flat bed and it is leveled correctly. Remember to always level your bed when it is hot because beds tend to warp when heated.

Follow the video below for some good bed leveling practices.

Regardless of whether you get these settings perfect, if you don’t have those two things done properly you significantly reduce the chances of print success at the start of your prints and even during, since prints can get knocked off a few hours in.

Initial Layer Height

The Initial Layer Height setting is simply the Layer Height your printer uses for the very first layer of your print. Cura defaults this to 0.2mm for a 0.4mm nozzle which works well in most cases.

The best Initial Layer Height ranges from 100-200% of your Layer Height. For a standard 0.4mm nozzle, an Initial Layer Height of 0.2mm is good, but if you need some extra adhesion, you can go up to 0.4mm. You may have to adjust your Z-offset accordingly, to account for the increase in material extruded.

When you do use a larger Initial Layer Height, how accurate you were with your bed leveling isn’t as important because you have more room for error. It can be a good move for beginners to use these larger Initial Layer Heights to get great adhesion.

Another benefit of doing this is assisting in reducing the presence of any defects that you may have on your build plate such as indents or marks, so it can actually improve the quality of the bottom of your prints.

Initial Layer Line Width

The best Initial Layer Width is around 200% of your nozzle diameter to give you increased bed adhesion. A high Initial Layer Width value helps compensate for any bumps and pits on the print bed and provides you a solid initial layer.

The default Initial Layer Line Width in Cura is 100% and this works just fine in many cases, but if you are having adhesion problems, it is a good setting to try adjusting.

Many 3D printer users do use a higher Initial Layer Line Width with good success so it’s definitely worth trying.

You don’t want this percentage to be too thick though because it can cause an overlap with the next set of extruded layers.

This is why you should keep your Initial Line Width between 100-200% for increased bed adhesion. These numbers have seemed to work great for people.

Printing Temperature Initial Layer

The best Printing Temperature Initial Layer is usually higher than the rest of the layers’ temperature and can be achieved by increasing the nozzle temperature by 5°C increments according to the filament you have. A high temperature for the first layer makes the material stick to the build platform much better.

Depending on what material you are using, you’ll be using a different set of temperatures, though the Printing Temperature Initial Layer will default as the same as your Printing Temperature setting.

Similar to the above settings, you don’t usually have to adjust this setting to get successful 3D prints, but it can be useful to have that extra control on the first layer of a print.

Initial Layer Speed

The best Initial Layer Speed is around 20-25mm/s since printing the initial layer slowly will give more time to your filament to melt thereby providing you a great first layer. The default value in Cura is 20mm/s and this works great for most 3D printing situations. 

Speed has a relation with temperature in 3D printing. When you’ve properly dialed in the settings of both, especially for the first layer, your prints are bound to come out exceptionally well.

Bottom Layer Pattern

You can actually change the bottom layer pattern to create a lovely looking bottom surface on your models. The picture below from Reddit shows the Concentric infill pattern on an Ender 3 and a glass bed.

The specific setting in Cura is called the Top/Bottom Pattern, as well as the Bottom Pattern Initial Layer, but you’ll have to either search for it or enable it in your visiblity settings.

Switched my initial layer pattern from zig zag to concentric. That’s a beautiful piece of plastic. Ender 3 Pro, glass bed, textured side, sliced in Cura. from 3Dprinting

How High Can the Ender 3 Print?

The Creality Ender 3 has a build volume of 235 x 235 x 250, which is a Z-axis measurement of 250mm so that is the highest in can print in terms of Z-height. The dimensions for the Ender 3 including the spool holder is 440 x 420 x 680mm. The enclosure dimensions for the Ender 3 are 480 x 600 x 720mm.

How Do You Set Up Cura on a 3D Printer (Ender 3)?

Setting up Cura is fairly easy on a 3D printer. The famous slicer software even has an Ender 3 profile on it among many other 3D printers to get users started with their machine as soon as possible.

After installing it on your PC from the official Ultimaker Cura website, you’ll go straight to the interface, and click on “Settings” near the top of the window.

As more options are revealed, you’ll have to click on “Printer,” and follow up by clicking on “Add Printer.”

Adding the Ender 3 on Cura

A window will appear as soon as you click on “Add Printer.” You’ll now have to select “Add a non-networked printer” since the Ender 3 does support have Wi-Fi connectivity. After that, you’ll have to scroll down, click on “Other,” find Creality, and click on Ender 3.

Selecting the Ender 3

After choosing the Ender as your 3D printer, you’ll click on “Add” and continue to the next step where you can adjust the machine settings. Make sure the build volume (220 x 220 x 250mm) is entered correctly in the stock Ender 3 profile.

The default values are bang on for this popular 3D printer, but if you see something you’d like to change, do it, and then click on “Next.” That should finalize setting up Cura for you.

Finalizing the Cura Setup

The rest of the work is nothing but a breeze. All you have to do is choose an STL file off of Thingiverse that you want to print, and slice it using Cura.

By slicing the model, you’re getting instructions for your 3D printer in the form of G-Code. A 3D printer reads this format and starts to print right away.

After you’ve sliced the model and have dialed in the settings, you’ll need to insert the MicroSD card that comes with your 3D printer into your PC.

The next step is to grab your sliced model and get it on your MicroSD card. The option to do that appears after you’ve sliced your model.

After getting the G-Code file onto your MicroSD card, insert the card into your Ender 3, rotate the control knob to find “Print from SD” and begin your print.

Before beginning, do make sure that you’re giving your nozzle and print bed enough time to heat up. Otherwise, you’ll run into loads of print imperfections and related issues.

Sours: https://3dprinterly.com/best-settings-for-a-3d-printer-cura-ender-3-more/
Creality Ender 3 Pro The Perfect Cura Settings - 3D Printing - Everyone Engineers! - 4K

Frankly and did not hesitate and did not hide from her telling her about their new sexual victories and adventures. And she rejoiced with them. They came to see her off to the station, and she kissed everyone.

Pro settings slicer 3 ender

She slept like a dead woman. On the second day, the first wanted a blowjob, and the second just a massage. To be honest, I do not like to do blowjobs. At all, so after that I deleted this item from the price list. By the way, no one knew about the price, I did not show it to anyone.

How to tune your slicer settings featuring Ender 3

In the hospital, there was only talk about me, and four days later, before the weekend, I was at home. Now I had nothing at all interfered with between my legs, everything was clean and smooth, and only a white bandage glued with a plaster sparkled with its whiteness.

A week later, I went to work and after the shift hurried to show off my appearance in front of Denis.

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A very beautiful woman, with beautiful breasts and a lovely ass, I looked at her more than once and thought how we would have sex with her. She lives alone in a one-room apartment. and not long ago I took a walk with my friends. and decided not to go home late so that my wife and I would not swear, but went straight to my.

Mother-in-law.



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