Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC
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Cub Cadet Hydraulic Pump Replacement 02004242P
Cub Cadet Hydraulic Pump Replacement 02004242P
Your Cub Cadet hydraulic pump replacement converts hydraulic energy into mechanical energy so your Cub Cadet mower runs efficiently.
This part replaces:
Cub Cadet Hydraulic Pump Replacement 02004242P – Please use our Free MTD Cub Cadet Parts Look Up to verify this is the correct part for your MTD Cub Cadet model and serial number. Not able to locate a specific part? Contact Us! Need parts for another brand? Check out our full line of brands here!
Where Used: Part Number 02004242P
Model Name Diagram
56B36D4K750 Tank Ride-On Sprayer-Spreader Hydro Pump Assembly
RECON 48 (53AH8ST3050) 23HP Kohler Hydro Hose & Pump Assembly
RECON 60 (53AH8ST5050) 25HP Kohler Hydro Hose & Pump Assembly
Tank 48 (53AH8STB050) 23HP Kohler Hydro Hose & Pump Assembly
Tank 60 (53AH8STD050) 25HP Kohler Hydro Hose & Pump Assembly
We recommend you verify which part is correct for your particular Cub Cadet unit. First, enter your model number by using our convenient Parts Lookup and Part Diagrams. Secondly, select the appropriate diagram. Third, select the appropriate part and quantity, then add it to your cart. However, should you be unable to find what you are looking for, please contact us via email or 800-866-5473.
After your order is placed, we will keep you informed of its status including notification when it ships. More importantly, our growing partnership with UPS allows us to offer reasonable shipping rates throughout the U.S. We proudly offer free shipping on orders of $75 or more however, over sized packages will have a small additional charge.
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Who Are We?
Powered by Andersons’ Sales & Service, Inc., we have everything you need to keep your Cub Cadet mower running right. If you live in the Louisville Metropolitan Area, you can pick up your order at one of our 3 convenient locations in Louisville, Crestwood, and Madison, Indiana. We have been in business for over 40 years and enjoy serving our customers from all 50 states in the U.S. Our Mission is Making Your Life Easy, Quality Products and Quality Service.
Thank you for your patronage, Happy Shopping!
4.23. When the fluid is between 160-210 deg. f.
(71-90 deg. c.) apply full forward drive pressure
to the lap bar with the engine running at full
speed (3600 RPM) while an assistant closes the
valve to the point where pressure reaches 300
PSI (21 Bar.). See Figure 4.23.
NOTE: It may be necessary to over-shoot 300
PSI slightly, then open the valve to reduce pres-
sure to 300 PSI.
4.24. Take note of the reading on the flow meter por-
tion of the test kit when the pressure gauge
reads 300 PSI.
4.25. Continue closing the valve until the pressure
reading reaches 1,100 PS I (76 bar.). Take note
of the flow reading. See Figure 4.25.
4.26. Subtract the 1,100 PSI flow reading from the 300
PSI flow reading. The resulting figure is called
CLOSE VALVE TO
4.27. Interpretation: flow droop greater than 1.5 GPM
indicates a pump that is not performing as well
as it should.
NOTE: A blocked filter may account for some
loss of performance.
4.28. Within the two year Cub Cadet Commercial war-
ranty period, replace the pump if it does not per-
form as specified and all other factors have been
4.29. If a hydro pump requires repair, refer to Hydro-
Gear publication "BLN-51337" for complete ser-
4.30. If the hydro pump and all other factors are O.K.,
replace the hydro motor.
NOTE: The hydro motor is not serviceable.
Replace it as a unit if it fails.
REPLACING THE HYDRO PUMP
If the cutting deck is currently on the unit,
Safely lift and support the rear of the tank.
Remove the rear wheels using a 3/4" socket.
Tilt the seat up, and disconnect the negative bat-
Remove the screen that covers the opening over
the cooling fans on the hydro pump to be
removed using a 3/8" wrench. See Figure 5.5.
REMOVE DEBRIS SCREEN
Cub Cadet hydro pump
Ok long story short. Right side of zero turn rider was getting weak and would stop pulling after 30-45 mins. So I started looking around for the model # so I could at least soo how much the part,(s) I need would be. I can not find a model # or anything on this mower. There is a sticker under the seat that says 01 oct 12. So I'm guessing it was made in 2001 october. I only got the mower last year from a co-worker, and it only has 500 hrs on it. There aren't any stickers under or on the floor board. I ever called cub cadet, and talked to a guy there and gave him the #'s that were under the seat. There is a sticket under seat that says S# ..... V#..... He said he thought it was a tank but he couldn't be sure. Anyway, it has a 23HP Kawasaki engine, zero turn rider. The seat does say cub cadet commercial. What I'm wanting to know is if I post some pics could someone help me out? I jus tneed to know th emodel number or the pump brand maybe. thanks for the help
Replacement pump cadet cub hydraulic
Note: As you read through this article you’ll notice that I have places where I need to post additional pictures. As I get those pictures I’ll add them to the article.
I’ve seen a lot of questions about the narrow frame hydraulic pumps that Cub Cadet used on their garden tractors. I’ve worked on quite a few of these so I thought I’d write an article on what I know about them. Fortunately, I don’t have one that needs working on right now, but I’ll use pictures and information that I’ve gained in the past for this article. The next time I have to work on one, I’ll get some pictures as I go – if I don’t get in too big of a hurry as I usually do!! The pumps generally don’t show much wear but require replacement of two seals that start leaking over time. The major fault is the failure of the pump gears. This is often caused by the failure of the valve return spring. If a section of the spring breaks and works its way into the gears, the gears are toast. For that reason, if you have reason to suspect a spring failure, quit using the pump and replace the spring.
The pump used on Cub Cadet was apparently manufactured for Cub Cadet by Hein Werner. These pumps with some major and minor variations were used on a variety of garden tractors. I’ve collected pumps from Toro, Wheel Horse, and Bolens as well as Cub Cadet. I’ll include some pictures and discussion about these variations after talking about the overhaul rather than making this discussion too long winded. (The Wheel Horse discussion got so long that I’ve moved it to it’s own section.)
A good friend, Larry Goss, sent me some additional information after I first wrote this article that I’ve since included in my discussion. Larry has a Hein Werner pump on a Power King tractor.
Begin by removing the pump from the bracket assembly.
(Click on image for larger view)
Begin the process by removing the nut that holds the reservoir in position. The nut is No. 52 in the previous parts diagram. Part No. 53 in the diagram is a washer and seal that seals the end of the hydraulic reservoir. On the majority of pumps I’ve worked on, this seal is stuck to the end of the reservoir. Don’t try to slide the reservoir off. Rotate it so that you “unscrew” the seal from the threads so that you won’t mess it up. The seal is one of those NLA things.
I’ve only had to remove the valve (No. 30) on one pump that I’ve worked on. Generally I’ve found that this part doesn’t leak. If you have to remove it, I think it’s easier to remove the external snap ring and force it inward rather than trying to remove the two roll pins on the inside. But be aware that the valve and pump body are made of mild steel and it’s easy to mar the surfaces. If you’re going to remove the valve, unscrew the control arm from the valve body and carefully remove the return spring on the inside surface. After removing the snap ring thoroughly clean the outer end of all paint and debris. I used a plastic mallet to gently tap the valve inward on the one that I did. I ordered a new O-ring from a Cub Cadet dealer (Part Number IH-707253-R1 1-1/4 X 1-1/2 X 1/8 O-ring). I do know that it was a tight fit and the valve was much stiffer after I replaced the O-ring. (Larry tells me the O-ring is an Amp-121.)
The three things I replace are the drive shaft seal (47), the reservoir gasket (35), and the valve spring (41).
The valve spring is NLA from Cub Cadet, but there are several places that now carry a replacement — Part No. IH-386371-R1. (You can find them from many of the sponsor’s of IHCubCadet.com. This spring can be also be ordered from JC’s Farm &Garden Supply mentioned in the Wheel Horse article. They also carry replacement gears. They have the replacement spring for the pump used on Cub Cadet, Part No. 5281.)
I replace the shaft seal with two seals as sort of double insurance.
The seals are small and it’s easy to get two of them in the shaft bore. But be careful you don’t push them in so far they cover the return drain hole located at the back of the bore. You should be able to pick up the seals at any bearing supply store.
Since the reservoir seal is also NLA from Cub Cadet, I use a replacement from McMaster Carr. Order: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/3482/=l3rdnd , Item No. 4061T269.
They’re a little taller than the original seal, but they work well.
There’s two gears that pump the oil through the pump. One gear is connected to the input shaft, and the other is an “idler” gear. I’ve never had to replace the bearing in the idler gear, but Larry tells me it’s an Oilite bushing ISO B060806. It seems to me since this gear runs in oil, a solid bushing should work just as well, but with the part number listed any bearing supply store should be able to come up with the necessary dimensions.
And that’s about it for now until I have to rebuild another one and get some more pictures. Don’t forget to “screw” the reservoir back on to avoid ruining the seal. And, by the way, I also figured that if I screwed up that seal, I’d just cut out a new one from neoprene and back it up with a flat washer.
I mentioned earlier that several tractors used the same pump. In most cases the “guts” of the pump are basically the same, but the mounting is different. If you want to use one of these other pumps as a replacement for your tractor, make sure it turns in the correct direction. Several garden tractors use a pump that turns in the opposite direction of the one used on the Cub Cadet. You’ll notice on the pump end there’s an arrow that indicates the direction the pump must rotate to operate.
The picture above is a Wheel Horse pump. Notice that the input shaft is on the right and indicates a counterclockwise rotation — the same as a Cub Cadet.
I don’t know what brand of tractor the pump above belongs to, but notice the input shaft is on the left and the arrow indicates a clockwise rotation.
I also had a pump that had a tube fastened to the return inlet.
The long tube seems like a good idea to me since it would prevent a broken spring from getting into the gears. I don’t know what kind of garden tractor this pump was manufactured for, but notice in the right hand picture that this bracket is made for a pump that rotates in the clockwise direction and won’t work on a Cub Cadet.
There’s another difference that I’d forgotten about, but Larry reminded me. One of the hydraulic pumps I worked on had needle bearings for the input shaft. All the Cub Cadet pumps I’ve worked on had a steel input shaft in a steel bore. Larry tells me that all Power King pumps contain needle bearings.
You should be able to make out the needle bearings in the picture above. (You might also just be able to make out that oil return hole on the right hand side of the bore that I mentioned earlier.) Larry tells me that a replacement needle bearing is a Torrington Bearing KOYB88.
As always, if you have any questions or comments you can contact me through this website.
Last Modified On: 2017-03-25 19:46:05Sours: http://www.cubcadetman.com/cc/how-tos/hydraulic-pumps/2013/01/working-on-narrow-frame-hydraulic-pumps/
Removal and Replacement of the Hydraulic Steering Pump
Prior to removing the steering pump, it is necessary to
remove the fender assembly.
CAUTION: Slowly remove the hydraulic lines from the
hydraulic steering pump. Test for pressure in the lines
1. Place an oil pan directly under the hydraulic
steering pump. This will catch the hydraulic fluid
that will be drained from the lines and the pump.
2. Remove all four of the hex head tapp screws from
the drive shaft to the pump adapter using a 3/8
NOTE: Removal of the drive shaft from the pump
adapter is necessary to allow access to the four
hydraulic steering pump mounting bolts.
3. Remove both hex cap screws and lock nuts from
the tilt wheel coupling using a 7/16 wrench and a
7/16 socket. See figure 2.
K&T Saw Shop 606-678-9623 or 606-561-4983
4. Raise the upper steering shaft. See figure 3.
5. Remove the lower steering shaft from the
6. Slide the drive shaft towards the left frame rail.
7. Write down the exact locations of all the hydraulic
8. Remove both hex cap screws from the steering
9. Remove the port plate from the hydraulic lines.
10 - 1
hydraulic steering pump. See figure 3.
NOTE: The lower steering shaft is splined on
each end and requires lubrication prior to
NOTE: Be careful not to dislodge the blue barrels
on each end of the drive shaft.
tubes. See figure 4.
pump port plate using a 13mm wrench.
NOTE: Pivot the top edge of the port plate
backward (towards the left frame rail), bringing
the plate to horizontal. Push the port plate up and
rotate the port plate counter-clockwise 90
degrees using the main pressure line as the pivot
point. Slide the port plate towards the left frame
rail until the port plate clears the hydraulic lines.
Steering Pump to Rear
Charge Pump to
to Front of
Cub Cadet 3000
of Steering Cylinder
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Cub Cadet Hydraulic Pumps are designed and engineered for peak hydraulic performance. Each Cub Cadet hydraulic pump is designed to deliver Cub Cadet hydraulic pump pressure at a fingertip, joystick application. Cub Cadet has developed a Cub Cadet hydraulic pump that can create a positive bottom line for your company when using the Cub Cadet hydraulic pump system in your heavy equipment. If there is a failure in your hydraulic pump system, your hydraulic pump can easily be replaced with a new Cub Cadet hydraulic pump or your Cub Cadet hydraulic pump can be repaired with new Cub Cadet hydraulic pump parts. We also offer an exchange program where you send your failed Cub Cadet hydraulic pump core in, and we can send you a new or remanufactured Cub Cadet hydraulic pump.
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Hydrostatic Transmission Service, LLC
1644 Eason Blvd Bldg D
Tupelo, MS 38801
Toll: 800-361-0068 Phone (662) 680-8899 Fax (662) 680-8097
EXCAVATOR HYDRAULIC AND HYDROSTATIC PUMP WARRANTY
EXCAVATOR HYDRAULIC-HYDROSTATIC PUMP WARRANTY INSTRUCTIONS
Hydrostatic Transmission Service, LLC warrants our excavator hydraulic-hydrostatic repaired pump or motor to be free of any defects in workmanship for a period of one (1) year from the date of installation if the following conditions are met by the customer:
A. The excavator hydraulic-hydrostatic pump reservoir must be cleaned out with diesel fuel or solvent and clean rags, then blown out with air.
B. All excavator hydraulic-hydrostatic pump lines must be filled with diesel fuel or solvent and blown out backwards with air.
C. All excavator hydraulic-hydrostatic pump fittings must have replacement o-rings installed.
D. The excavator hydraulic-hydrostatic pump oil cooler must be removed from the machine and taken to a company that can adequately clean and core it out by certified a radiator shop. The oil cooler must be placed in vat and cored out, do not place in acid vat as fins are made of aluminum. After removing from vat, use cheese cloth on the bottom output and force naptha or diesel from the top down with force to check again for any debris. Shake unit, if any rattling at all, purchase a new oil cooler. A copy of this receipt must be forwarded to our company so that we can put it on file. High pressure hosing and/or flushing does not qualify for warranty procedure. ***IF THERE HAS BEEN CATASTROPHIC FAILURE AND/OR THE OIL COOLER CANNOT BE 100% CLEANED AND FREE OF DEBRIS, THEN THE OIL COOLER MUST BE REPLACED WITH A NEW OIL COOLER.***
E. All filters must be replaced.
F. All excavator hydraulic-hydrostatic pump oil must be replaced, preferably with a 30 weight non-foaming rust and oxide oil.
G. The excavator hydraulic-hydrostatic pump or motor must be physically charged with oil before connecting the excavator hydraulic-hydrostatic pump lines back to the unit, by filling the cavity of the units up with a funnel and oil.
H. Attach all lines, fill up reservoir with oil, start unit for 20 seconds and cut off. Then, refill with oil again.
I. Any deviation from the above procedures will automatically void our warranty completely.
J. If all the above conditions are met, we unconditionally warrant our product for one full year, parts only. This does not include labor to take off and put on.
I, the customer, have read and fully understand the above procedures and certify that all procedures have been completed as requested herein.
Customer or Company authorized personnel signature Date
Customer or Company authorized personnel printed name Title
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