Whirlpool washer knob broke off

Whirlpool washer knob broke off DEFAULT

The knob on my GE washer won’t turn. It just spins and I cannot turn the washer on. I removed the plastic knob by pulling up and the piece on the knob that holds the washer shaft is cracked. How do i replace it? I have a pile of clothes I need to wash today. I need advice on fixing my washer ASAP. I know I probably need to buy a part but in the meantime is there a way to make the washer work just to wash my clothes right now?

Broken Washer KnobBroken Washer Knob – How To Fix or Replace

Replacing your washing machine knob is easy. We will tell you how to go about ordering a new knob below. To get the washer to work for now to wash your pile of clothes, get a pair of pliers and grab the shaft of the timer (the part that sticks out once the knob is off). Grab the shaft and turn the pliers in the direction you usually turn to set the timer to the appropriate washing cycle. This should make it so it is possible to wash the clothing right now.

use pliers when washing machine knob is brokenUse pliers or needle nose pliers temporarily when washing machine knob is broken

Instead of ordering a new washer knob, you may want to try and fix it yourself. To fix the broken or cracked plastic knob, use epoxy glue. Apply the epoxy to the cracked area of the knob. Hold it together tightly while it is drying with a pair of needle nose pliers. Hold the cracked plastic together for the amount of time the epoxy instructions say. Hold it together until the epoxy glue is completely dry. Next, slide the washer knob back onto the shaft. Test the knob by turning it to a wash cycle. If this has worked or not it is best to purchase a new washer knob for your washing machine as the repair you just made may not hold for long.

gorilla epoxy glueGorilla epoxy glue works great on bonding plastic!

The cheapest way to buy a new washer timer knob or selector knob for your Whirlpool, GE, Kenmore, Frigidaire, Samsung, Electrolux, Hotpoint, or Maytag is through Amazon. The washer knobs available are inexpensive and most are genuine and will be the exact replacement just like the original. The prices are relatively cheap ranging from $5 to $30 dollars depending on your brand of washer. Click here to see the page where all of the washer control knob and washer selector knobs are listed and available for your washer.

washing machine replacement knobsWashing machine replacement knobs here

Replacing the washer knob should take you a few seconds. The new one you purchase will slide onto the shaft of your washer timer and should be as good as new. You can then begin using your washer immediately. If your washer timer or washer selector switch is the issue, see below.

If the washer knob is NOT cracked but the shaft on the switch or selector has broken off or will not turn, you will need to buy a new washer switch or selector. Replacing the washer timer switch or selector switch is not as easy as replacing the knob but by following the instructions it can be done by almost anyone.

washing machine timer replacementWashing machine timer replacement here

washing machine timerDetailed view of a washing machine timer

The easy way to buy a new washer switch or selector is through Amazon within the category of “Washing Machine Parts & Accessories”. Have a look here to find the washer switch/selector that will fit your model washer. Most washer switch/selectors will cost between $40 and $100 dollars depending on your brand. This may seem expensive but consider calling a repairman that will charge $100 just to show up! Doing this job yourself will save you money and get you more comfortable with doing home repairs.

washing machine selector switchWashing machine selector switch here


GE WASHER KNOB REPAIR


How to FIX TIMER dial knob that will not catch and turn on washer / washing machine

Remember that replacing parts on appliances can have multiple steps where not all machines are the same. Please use caution and common sense when performing these repairs yourself.

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Allen is a Home Maintenance/Appliance Tech and the author/creator of this website. He has 33 years of experience troubleshooting and repairing all types of appliances. Contact here

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What to Do When Your Stove Knob Breaks

The knobs on your kitchen stove are among the most used control in the whole kitchen. Maybe the microwave gets more use. Then again, maybe it doesn’t. Your cooktop knobs power every kind of recipe. Soups and canned goods heat on the stove. Burgers sizzle. Or the stove becomes the stage for your home chef performance.

However you use the cooktop in your home, the temperature is no doubt an important factor. You need the infinite switch or control knob to accurately set the temperature of each burner. If your burners stop setting the temperature correctly, then you could be facing bad news or a tough repair. But if the problem is actually just the burner knob, then the repair should be relatively easy and simple. 

When Your Stove Burner Knob is Broken

The burner knob, as opposed to the burner switch, is an all-plastic piece that sometimes cracks with use. The crack can happen because of an impact or just because very old plastic tends to get brittle. But there are a few distinct signs that the problem is with the knob and not the switch.

First is a ‘mushy’ or cracking feeling when you twist the knob. The switch is not working correctly because the knob cracks around the post when you try to turn it. The next sign is if you have a harder time turning the burner on and off than sliding between settings. Of course, if you can see the crack in the plastic, there is no question.

So what do you do about that broken knob? You have a few options, both in the mean-time and to get that knob fixed. 

Remove and Clean the Knob & Post

The first thing you can and should do is to clean both the knob and the post. There’s a chance that a certain amount of grease and grit has gotten into the join between the knob and the post and it might be enough to cause significant problems. Cleaning the knob and post can also give you a clearer view of the problem and how you can solve it.

Burner switch knobs pull right off, directly away from the control panel surface. There’s no clip or latch, it should pull right off. From there, soak the knob in soapy water and scrub it with a dish brush. Clean the post and control panel with a sponge. You may realize that years of drips and food residue have been building up behind that knob and getting it clean is a side benefit of replacing or repairing the cracked plastic. 

Glue the Knob Back Together (Try at your own risk)

Epoxy glue is designed to seal two pieces of plastic together. The good thing about a crack in a solid knob is that the crack is clean. If you can get glue into that space, the knob will affix back together. So if your goal is just to get your burner knob back into service, you can easily do this with a little epoxy glue.

Line the glue into the crack and press the halves together for the amount of time indicated on your glue container. Then give your knob the rest of the curing time on your counter. When the adhesive is fully cured (the total time on the container) you can pop it right back onto the post and, if all went well, it’ll be good as new. Or at least as good as it was before it cracked. 

The biggest issue is the temperature changes that can occur at the knob as it can get very hot depending on the design and depending on the glue used, it could release unknown chemicals or fall apart again due to the temperature change.

There is no recommended glue from appliance manufacturers, they only recommend replacing the know with the same exact same design.

Replace the Plastic Knob

Of course, you may want to take this chance to make an improvement. Over time, burner knobs get more than dirty. They can get damaged, partially melted, and the numbers almost always fade or wear away. You can make an improvement by purchasing a new knob to replace the old one. Or even a whole set of knobs to replace each one on your stove.

You will need to look up the make and model of your stove and order burner knobs that match. That way, the range marked on each knob will be correct and the knobs will definitely fit on your posts. 

Turn the Knob with Pliers (Not recommended)

Keep in mind that turning a knob with pliers could damage the switch controlling the knob or damage something else entirely. The only time something like this should be considered is if the knob broke off while turned on, but another option to turn off the stove is to disconnect power and gas(if it’s gas).

Whether you are gluing your broken knob together or ordering a new one, there will be a period of time when your stove is knob-free. Don’t worry, you can still use your stove. Get yourself a pair of locking or needle-nose pliers and fasten them around the post. If you remember your approximate turns, you can estimate burner temp or just use that burner for boiling or low simmering at the ends of the twist-range.

What to Do If Fixing the Knob Doesn’t Fix the Burner Switch

The final test is when you place the newly repaired or replaced knob back on the post. Test to see if it turns correctly and feels like a firm grip on the post. From there, test to see if your burner reaches the right temperatures at the correct settings. Make sure your switch is correctly aligned and try cooking something you are very familiar with like eggs or simple toast to test the burner heat.

If the burner still isn’t working right, then there’s a good chance that the root of your problem is the burner switch itself, even if the knob was also broken. This is a far more involved repair and not all appliance owners are confident diving into the control panel. Join us for another repair guide to replace your burner switch. Or, if you’d rather a professional open up your stove, we would be glad to help take care of that as well. Contact our team to schedule a repair with a professional repair technician. We would be glad to hear from you. 

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How To: Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Maytag Knob W10807860

timer knob just spins

follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

Lid Switch Assembly

If the washer stops mid cycle the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly

If the washer stops mid cycle the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Water Inlet Valve

If the washer stops mid cycle the water inlet valve cold water side may have failed. Most washers have a cold water rinse and so if they can't fill with cold water they just sit indefinitely waiting for the cold water to enter. If there is cold water to the water inlet valve and the cold water works in other parts of the cycle - or to make warm water - the valve is not the problem.

Main Control Board

If the washer stops mid-cycle the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other causes first such as the lid or door switch and other components.

Timer

If the washer stops mid cycle the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer.

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Off whirlpool washer knob broke

Introduction: Extend the Life of a Washing Machine Timer

After a dozen years of use, our washing machine no longer works during what should be the spin cycle.  The timer will need replacement, but can be given a temporary extension of life to get us through a few more loads until the timer I ordered on-line arrives.

Step 1: Remove Control Knob

The black arrow points to the control knob.  Push it inward as you would to turn the machine "off."  You can turn the push/pull knob counter-clockwise and it will unscrew from the timer shaft (red arrow).  Pull the round indicator plate behind it off, too. 

Step 2: Access the Timer

The timer is behind the control panel.  Our machine is a Sears Kenmore.  Grasp the plastic end caps at the top and pull forward.

Step 3: Remove Screws

Two screws, one on each side of the control panel, must be removed.  The one on the right side of the machine is shown here.  Lift and pull the control panel forward from the rest of the washing machine.

Two screws hold the timer against the front of the control panel.  They were visible after removing the control knob and indicator in the last step.  Remove these screws, too.  Disconnect the wiring harness from the timer and remove the timer.

Step 4: Taking the Timer Apart

The timer consists of a plastic wheel with numerous cams on it, a comb of brass contact arms, and a motor.  All of these are mounted in a metal frame.  The metal frame is pressed from two pieces of sheet metal.  It is held together with three bent metal tabs.  See the red arrows in both photos.  Straighten these so they can slide through the slots below them.

Step 5: Contact Arms

This is the comb of brass contact arms. 

Step 6: Examine the Contacts

All functions on our washing machine, except for the spin cycle work just fine.  Most contact points appear only mildly pitted when the arms are lifted for examination.  The third contact from the bottom left of the photo is badly pitted and worn away from high current arcing.  Notice also the black soot on the white plastic.  If so much of the contact were not just gone, filing a clean surface onto the contact points would help.  But the contact point needs to be built up. 

Step 7: Build Up the Contact

I decided to try a very low heat setting on my wire feed welder to add just a little weld material to the old contact with just a short burst or two.  Notice I have a small piece of steel clamped to the back of the contact arm to take away extra heat before it can damage the brass arm.  I know that some artists in metal weld copper pieces with copper welding wire in their wire feed welders.  I do not have any copper wire for welding, but I decided to make do with steel, and it worked well enough. 

Step 8: What Could Go Wrong?

I should have replaced the copper tip on my welder before attempting this.  The hole in the end was worn a bit.  When I squeezed the trigger on my welder, the arc began a little off to one side of where I aimed.  Some of the brass arm was eaten away.  I attempted to build up the contact a little more.  I built it up, but also caused the end of the arm to fall away.  So, I soldered a thin piece of brass tubing to the arm for an extension.

I might have done better with my welding if I had kept the stick out of the wire shorter.  Resting the end of the nozzle on something so I did not accidentally move the nozzle when I pulled the trigger would help, too.  

Step 9: Reassembly

Two paws need to be held back so the white plastic wheel with the cams and teeth on it can be fully inserted into the timer frame.  The file on my PST Leatherman tool is pointing at the paws.  I used it to hold the paws back. 

Step 10: Something to Watch During Assembly

The red arrow points to the cam for the on/off switch.  Slide this back and forth to help the timer halves fit together.  Make certain the switch moves freely when the shaft is pulled in and out.  Do this before bending the tabs to hold the halves together.  See step 4.

Attach the wiring harness.  Fasten the timer to the control panel with its two screws.  Attach the knob and indicator plate.  Secure the control panel to the washing machine again. 

This fix worked perfectly on one wash load, but faltered on the second load.  After trying again, it worked a third time.  This is not a perfect fix, but we now have enough clean clothes until the new timer comes, and my wife did not need to spend time waiting in a laundromat.  I could also try adding a little more weld material to the contact points, but there is always the risk I will burn away too much of a contact arm.


UPDATE: The new timer arrived.  I removed and examined the old timer.  The contacts I built up with my welder had fused together from the heat of arcing under use.  We did a total of four loads of wash while the modified old timer was in place.  On the last three loads I had to shut the washer off and then turn it back on at the beginning of the spin cycle.  When I did this, the washer left the rinse cycle and entered the spin cycle.      

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How To: Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Maytag Knob W10807860

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